Today I want to share with you the tutorial for the Primrose blanket. It’s divided up into three parts. The making of the flowers, the joining and the edging. It’s going to be a comprehensive tutorial but no worries, after two flowers you get the hang of it and you’ll be finishing your own blanket in no time! And the best part is, the flowers are a continuous pattern so with each flower you only have 2 ends to darn in! The pattern is written in US terms. Please read the whole pattern before you start (really, there are not that many words in this pattern, mostly pictures)! The final blanket measures about 80 x 120 cm, but you can easily make it larger if you desire.
What you’ll be needing:
- 5 skeins of Invicta colour (number 971), available at Deramores or Woolwarehouse
- 4 skeins of Invicta Extra (number 1462), available at Deramores or Woolwarehouse
- a 3,0 mm crochet needle
- darning needle
For the flowers I used the invicta colour. I made about 30 flowers from 1 skein.
Chain 4 (counts as first DC + chain). *DC in the next stitch, ch 1*. Repeat until the end of the round, and join with a slip stitch in the 3th chain of the first DC. The piece might be a little concave at this point, but this will straighten out in the next round.
Slip stitch to the first intermediate DC space. Chain 3 (counts as first DC). DC 2 more. Skip the next DC, and DC 3 in the next intermediate DC space. SC in the next DC. This will create the separate petals. Repeat *DC 3, skip DC, DC 3, SC* until the end of the round. Join the last petal with a slip stitch to the slip stitch in the beginning of the round. If this is not possible (usually slip stitches are pretty tight), join into the 1st DC chain.
Now you’re going to create the backbone for the next row of petals. Ch 2, and join the Ch with a SC to the next DC. Ch 5, skip one DC (the one with the SC of the previous round) and join with a SC in the next DC. Repeat *Ch 5, skip DC, SC in next DC* Complete until you’re back at the beginning. The last Ch5 should be joined to the first SC of your round (not the small part with the Ch 2, this is just a tiny trick to compensate for the half petal you’re skipping in this row). The back of your flower should now look like a wheel with spokes.
Now we’re going to make the larger petals. Slip stitch into the ch 5 space. Ch 3 (counts as first DC), DC 9 more in the chain space. SC in the SC of the previous round. Repeat *DC 10, SC in SC* until the end of the round. Join with a slip stitch in the slip stitch you began the round with. If this is not possible, join in the 1st Ch.
Well done! The flowers are now complete. Now you can go ahead and make a whole bunch of them!
The flowers are joined with the Invicta extra. I wanted to give the blanket a ‘lacy’ feel, so I decided to go with a chain-join. My blanket is made up out of 10 x 16 flower blocks.
Locate the 5th and 6th DC in a petal (indicated with arrow). Join your yarn there and ch 3. SC in the same space. Now you’ve made a corner loop. Ch 7, and join with a SC in the next petal between the 5th and 6th DC. Ch 7, and Sc in the next petal between the 5th and 6th DC. ch 3, and SC in same space. Repeat this untill you completed the round. Join the last ch 7 with a slip stitch into the first chain of the round. Your shape may be a little round instead of square, but this will be corrected afterwards when you block your rows.
Pick a new flower and create (depending on the position of your flower) 2 (flowers in the first row and first of a new row) or 1 (other flowers) corner loop. When you approach the loop which you need to join, do the following: after your ch 7, SC in between the 5th and 6th DC space of your petal. Put your flowers back to back, Ch 1, then slip stitch through the corner loop of your other flower. ch 2 more, and SC in the same space as you would normally finish a corner loop. Continue as you would do for any other flower, and in the next corner loop join the other loop with a slip stitch as well. This way, your flowers will be joined only at the corners (this will make them nice and square in the end, because there’s outward tension in every corner).
When you need to join a corner loop to two other corners, make your corner loop by SC in between the 5th and sixth DC space of the petal, ch 1, then slip stitch through the first corner loop, and then slip stitch through the second one (both indicated with arrows), ch 2 and SC in the same space. Effectively, you’re just slip stitching one more loop to your work.
Cut your yarn after joining every individual flower. You have to weave in a couple of ends (I do mine every second row) but this way your joins will be nice and even and you don’t have to think about crazy schemes to join everything as you go (that’s not really possible with this kind of join).
I block my squares after each row, you can see the process here. Basically it’s pinning your squares into place (mine were 8 cm square, but that’s also depending on your tension so that might differ from person to person), spray them with water untill they’re moist and let the blocks dry completely. This blocking is really a must, because otherwise your squares won’t end up, well, square.
I’ve made the edging on a separate sample. You’re going to need the Invicta extra.
Join with a slip stitch in a SC of the joining round. Ch 8 to the part where two corners of squares meet. Slip stitch through both loops. Ch 8 to the next SC and slip stitch in the SC. Continue making chains untill you’re in a corner loop. After your ch 8, slip stitch in the corner loop and ch 4. Then slip stitch in the same corner loop again (effectively creating another corner loop on top of the previous loop) and continue with the ch 8. Work your way in the round and join the last chain with a slip stitch into the first chain. Cut yarn, don’t weave in ends (do this when you’re done with the edging, it will be much easier then).
Join the yarn with a slip stitch around a chain. HDC 14 times around a chain. after 14 HDC, start 14 HDC in the next chain space (no loose chains in between!). When you reach a corner loop, make a chain after you HDC 14. SC in the corner loop and ch 4. SC in the same corner loop again (effectively making a new corner loop), ch 1 and HDC 14 in the next chain space. Continue this way in the round and join with a slip stitch in the first slip stitch. Cut yarn.
Join the yarn in between a 7th and 8th HDC of the previous round with a slip stitch. Ch 10, then slip stitch in between a 7th and 8th HDC of the next HDC-bow. Continue like you did in row 1, except make 10 chains instead of 8. Continue untill the end of the round. Cut yarn.
Join the yarn in a chain space with a slip stitch. HDC 16 in the same chain space. Continue just you did in row 2, except now you’ll make 16 HDCs in total in every bow. join with a slip stitch in the first slip stitch. Cut yarn.
Join the yarn in between an 8th and 9th HDC of the previous round with a slip stitch and then SC in the same stitch. Ch 8. SC in between the 8th and 9th HDC of the previous round. Continue this way. When you’re 1 chain away from the corner, ch 5 instead of 8. DC in the corner loop of the previous row. Ch 5 , join in between the 8th and 9th HDC of the previous round. Then ch 8 and join in between the 8th and 9th HDC of the previous round. Continue this untill you’ve worked your way in the round. Join with a slip stitch in the first SC.
If you find that the blanket is really pulling around the corners, try ch 6 instead of 5. It’s a little bit depending on your tension what will work for you!
When you’re done, weave in your ends and enjoy your blanket! All that is left now is to block the edges just as you did with the squares!
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Copyright of Haak maar Raak
This pattern is for unlimited personal use. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from the designer before offering any kits for sale. For questions, please contact me at email@example.com.