This is the English version for the Catherine cowl. For the Dutch (nederlandse) version, please click here!
It’s very easy to make your own Catherine cowl. All you need is 4 colours of Cotton 8 made by Scheepjeswol (available from Deramores and Woolwarehouse), a crochet hook, a weaving needle and a pair of scissors. In the pattern I’ll refer to my colours as A (colour number 717), B (colour number 653), C (colour number 510) and D (colour number 654). I used a 3,5 mm crochet hook (E). The pattern is written in US terms.
Row 1: With colour A, ch 161. If you want to make the cowl larger, use a multiple of 8 + 1. This size creates a cowl with a diameter of 20 cm (8″) and a circumference of 65 cm (26″).
Row 2: Skip 1 ch, and SC back. Make an extra stitch in the last ch. This is not visible in the cowl, but makes the edging easier. You’ve made 160 + 1 = 161 SCs in this row. Cut off colour A. Keep in mind that you need long ends to stitch the sides together. So keep an end of 20 cm (8″) or so.
Row 3: Turn your piece so the ends face towards the left. With colour B, start at the right hand side of your work. Slip stitch in the first stitch. Skip 3 st, * 3 DC, 1 ch, 3 DC* in 1 stitch. Skip 3 st, SC (photo 1). Repeat untill the end. (photo 2) and cut colour B. As you can see I’ve made a small sampler for the purpose of this tutorial, the real cowl is a lot bigger.
Row 4: Take colour C and join this with a slip stitch in the previously made SC. Ch3, turn your piece. You now see the backside of the row with colour B. You clearly see the 3 DCs (picture 3, arrows).
Make a ‘DC3tog’ throughout all 3 of these stitches. You’ll do that as follows: Yarn over, pull needle through stitch, bring a loop back, yarn over, bring the loop back through the first two loops on hook. Do the same for the next 2 stitches, you’ve got 4 loops on your hook (picture 4). Yarn over and pull back through all loops. This is the DC3tog.
Ch 7, DC7 tog (picture 5). Repeat the Ch7 and DC7Tog untill you’ve made your last complete wheel. Then Ch 7 more, and do a DC3tog. Make a DC in the slip stitch of the previous row (picture 6).
Row 5: Ch 3, turn. The ch 3 counts as first DC. Make 3 more DCs in the gap of the DC7tog (photo 7). Next, SC in the chainspace two rows below. You’ll encase the 7 chains in your SC (photo 8).
*DC 3, Ch 1, DC 3* in the gap of the DC7tog, and make a SC in the next chainspace. Repeat untill you’ve made your last complete wheel. DC 3 in the gap of the DC3tog of the previous row, and make an extra DC in the 3th ch of your starting DC (photo 9). Cut off colour C.
Row 6: Turn work. Join colour D with a slip stitch in the extra DC of the previous row, and ch 3. Next, DC7tog (picture 10) and Ch 7. Repeat this untill the last complete wheel. CH 3, and SC in the 3th ch of the starting DC of the previous row.
Row 7: Ch 1, turn. SC in the SC of the previous row. * DC 3, Ch 1, DC 3* in the DC7togh. SC in the chainspace. Repeat untill the end of the row. Cut off colour D.
Row 8: Repeat row 4 with colour A.
Row 9: Repeat row 5 with colour A.
Row 10:Repeat row 6 with colour B.
Row 11: Repeat row 7 with colour B.
Keep on repeating the colour pattern with A, B, C and D. I ended up making 31 rows for my cowl, out of which 28 where with complete catherine wheels, 2 were for the starting rows and 1 to start the wheels. This results in a cowl of approximately 28 cm in height (11″), including the border.
When you’ve decided that your cowl is high enough, you need another row to make the top straight. If you kept to the colour scheme, you now need colour A. Use the description of row 6, but replace the Ch 7 for a ‘Ch 3, SC in chain space of row below, Ch 3, SC in gap of DC7tog’. The last ch 3 ends with a SC in the 3th ch of previous row. Cut off colour A.
Now you have a large, rectangular cowl with straight edges! But since we’ve ended with two different colours on both sides, the colour schemes for the edging is different on each side.
Top side (side we were already working on)
First we’re going to make a few rows of SC, then a picot edging. You want to have a multiple of 4 for the picot-edge, and 160 is the closest number to this. This means you have to decrease 1 SC. this is, fortunately, barely noticable.
Because you can see when you’re working back and forth in SCs, we now start working only from right to left. This means that you cut your yarn every row.
With colour B, make a standing SC (and if you’re not familiar with that stitch, you can use a slip stitch and a SC in the same stitch) in the first SC of the row. Next, SC 3 in the chain space of the previous row. SC 1 in the gap of the DC7tog. SC 3 in the chain space, and SC 1 in the SC of the previous row. Repeat this untill your last chain space. There, SC 2 instad of 3. Then you’ll end with 160 SC. Cut yarn.
Make another row of 160 SCs with both colour C and D.
Bottom side (side with the starting chain)
The bottom side is already made out of 160 chains, so you don’t have to decrease here! Crochet a row of SC with colour C, and with colour D. This way, you’ll have a similar edge on both sides.
This is the last part of the edging. First, make a slip stitch in the first stitch. Next, SC in the next stitch, and make a HDC in the next stitch. Make a picot; ch 2, put your hook through 2nd ch from hook, yarn over (picture 11), pull the loop through all loops on hook (picot made). HDC in the same stitch, and SC in the next stitch. Repeat this order *slip stitch, SC, [HDC, picot, HDC] in 1 stitch, SC* untill the end of the row(picture 12).
You’re done with the largest part already! Now we just need to block it before we start closing up the cowl. This yarn really benefits from blocking because a) it gets supersoft, b) the pattern is enhanced by it and c) the cowl will stay in shape. You might have noticed that the Catherine wheel is a tight stitch. When you start with 80 cm’s of chains, the middle of cowl is only 65 cm. Yay for wet blocking!
It’s very simple: Take a bucket of water, and submerge your cowl. Let it sit for a little while, and then take your cowl out. Don’t mangle it or anything, I simply put it on a towel, fold the towel over the cowl and then softly roll it up to get the excess water. Next, take your cowl, put it on your ironing board (or old mattress, or old towel) and start pinning away! Pin the sides, pin the points of the picots, pin everything! The cowl stays in shape after it has dried (photo 13).
Now only the sewing remains! Take the ends and weave them through your stitches on both sides. It’s not the fun part of making something, but if you do it neatly you’ll be happy afterwards. I mean, you barely can see the seam this way (check the picture below)!
I’ve made a crochet diagram for those of you who prefer it that way. It’s a quick oversight of how the Catherine wheel is build up.
And that is not all! Scheepjeswol is offering you a chance to win the Cotton 8 yarns for this cowl! To enter the raffle, like their facebookpage, comment on the giveaway picture and share it on your own timeline. The winner will be announced on the 17th of March, European entries only. Good luck!
Facebookpage of Scheepjeswol
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Copyright of Haak maar Raak
This pattern is for unlimited personal use. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from the designer before offering any kits for sale. For questions, please contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org.