This is the English version of the pattern. For the dutch (nederlandse) version, please click here!
Hi everybody! Today I want to share with you the pattern for the Catherine Wristies. They match the cowl perfectly, with the same colours and same crochet needle: I used Cotton 8 from Scheepjeswol in colour A (#717), colour B(#653), colour C(#510) and colour D(#654), which is available on Deramores and Woolwarehouse. and crochet needle 3,5 mm (E). The pattern is written in US terms. You’ll need about 75 meters of yarn for each wristie, pretty much evenly distributed over 4 colours. So take your large scraps of yarn and start crocheting!
I separated the pattern in two pieces: the wheel part and the edging.
In the tutorial for the Catherine cowl I included a photo tutorial on the Catherine wheel.You can follow this tutorial (including colours). The only thing that differs is the starting chain; in this pattern you start with 48 chains +1 turning chain = 49 chains, and you’ll end with 49 SC in row 1. If you’d like your wristies larger in circumference, you can add a multiple of 8 stitches (so 48+8, 48+2×8 etc). The other way around, making the wristies smaller, works exactly the same. Keep in mind that this stitch doesn’t stretch very much! The chain circumference (without stretching it) is pretty accurate for how wide your wristies will be.
Follow the catherine cowl tutorial untill your wristies are approximately 10-12 cm in length. This differs a little bit for everybody (depending on your wrist size and shape), but mine took 6 rows of complete wheels (+ a first row of half wheels). If you reached this length, you can follow the cowl tutorial for the top row, where you’ll secure the top side half wheel-row. Now you’ll have a piece with straight edges, and we can continue with the edging!
Please pay attention, In the pattern I explain where you only need to work in the back loops of a stitch. If this is not indicated, crochet through both loops.
First you’ll take colour B and crochet a row on top of the straight edge of wheels. Make 2 SC in the first stitch, then 3 in the chainspace, 1 SC in the eye of the DC7tog, 3 SC in the chainspace and 1 SC in the SC of the previous row. Repeat untill the end, and crochet 2 SC in the last SC of the previous row. In total you’ll have 48 SC (photo 1). Cut off yarn. This edge doesn’t look to0 pretty now, but this will be fine in the end.
Use colour B to make another row of SC, and increase 1 SC in the second-to-last SC (49 SC). Cut off yarn. This is starting to look better! (photo 2).
The exciting part starts! To make a double edging, you need to make two separate rows: one in the front loop, and one in the back loop (cut yarn after every row). I think it’s easier to start with the back loop so you can see the front loop afterwards. So crochet with colour B a row of SC (49 SC), but in the back loops only. if you do so, you’ll see a row of loops in front of this row (photo 3, arrows). Make another row in these front loops only (picture 4, 49 SC).
So now you have 2 separate rows: the front loop row and the back loop row. These look very much alike. The difference is that the back loop row needs to be a little bit higher to stand out, and therefore gets another row of SCs. This is not written as an extra row but included in row 4.
Row 4: everything is worked in the back loops only!
Back loop row: Take colour B and make another row of SCs (49 SC), cut yarn. Take colour C and make a row of 10 SC, 30 HDCs and 10 SCs, to make the edge fit the shape of our hands better (photo 5, the arrow indicates where the HDC begin)
Front loop row: Take colour C and make 10 SC, 30 HDC and 10 SC. Cut yarn.
Back loop row: Use colour D and make a row of SC (49 SC), photo 7.
Front loop row: Use colour D and make a row of SC (49 SC), photo 7.
Now it’s time for the spike edging! Take colour A.
back loop row: Make a spike as follows: slip stitch, SC, [HDC, picot, HDC in 1 stitch], SC. Cut yarn (photo 8-9). A photo tutorial of the spike edging is included in the Catherine cowl tutorial (
Front loop row: The spikes on both rows look best if they’re misaligned, so you’ll start the first spike with a ch2, picot and a HDC in the same stitch. Then continue the spike stitches like normal. The last spike will consist of a HDC, picot and HDC in the last stitch (photo 11). Cut yarn.
Now that you’ve finished the crochet part, only the blocking and sewing remains. I weave in the ends of the edges before blocking, but not the ones of the wheels because you’ll need those to join the two ends together. Blocking is very simple: submerge your wristies in cold water. Let it soak for a moment, then take it out and lay it on an old towel. Gently roll up the towel to remove excess water. Now take out your wristies and start pinning it to your iron board, or old mattress, or foam board, whatever works for you! Pay special attention to the points of the picots, because they’ll really stand out if you pin them properly (photo 12 is unblocked, but look at those points in the last picture!)
Now you need to join the edges. I joined them untill the top red row (photo 13, arrows). This place might be different for you, but you need to join the wristies untill they fit over your hands and the edging is around your knuckles. Lastly, weave in the remaining ends.
That’s it! Enjoy your matching pair of wristies and cowl!
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Copyright of Haak maar Raak
This pattern is for unlimited personal use. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from the designer before offering any kits for sale. For questions, please contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org.