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Skyline pillow

05.Nov.19 / Kirsten Ballering

The Skyline pillow is a great excuse to use your favourite colours. The ombre colours look great in any decor, and the join-as-you-go panels are easy to change in size. The pattern comes with a crochet diagram and is written in US English terms.

The pattern for the Skyline pillow is also available as a styled and advertisement- free PDF in the Haak Maar Raak shop.

Materials and preparation

Yarn

Scheepjes Catona (100% mercerised cotton, 50g/125m)
  • Colour A: 106 White snow x 1 ball
  • Colour B: 246 Ice Pink x 1 ball
  • Colour C: 222 Tulip x 1 ball
  • Colour D: 251 Carnelian Rose x 1 ball
  • Colour E: 128 Tyrian Purple x 5 balls
Scheepjes Catona (100% mercerised cotton, 25g/62.5m)
  • Colour A: 106 White snow x 1 ball
Other
  • 5 buttons
  • 50 x 50cm inner pillow (20 x 20in)
  • 4 stitch markers

Shop the yarn

Are you looking for these yarns? You can buy them from a local Scheepjes retailer, or online at webshops such as:

Crochet hook

3.0mm.

Measurements

Cover fits a 50 x 50 inner pillow (20 x 20in).

Gauge/tension

One square measures 3cm on each side (1.2in).

Notes

  • You’ll be making a 14 x 14 square grid that is joined-as-you-go. For the colour distribution, check the colour layout below. Next, you’ll work an edge around the front. The back is worked in two separate parts, to ensure that you can change the pillow inner. Finally, you work an edge around the back and work a final row through both the edges of the Front and Back to join the cover parts.
  • You can start with any square. I prefer to work the grid in columns, starting with the darker colours.
  • Want to swap yarns to Colour Crafter? Check out the Catona-to-Colour Crafter conversion table.

Abbreviations (US terms)

  • BL: back loop
  • ch: chain
  • ch-sp(s): chain-space(s)
  • hdc: half double crochet
  • RS: right side
  • sc: single crochet
  • ss: slip stitch
  • st(s): stitch(es)
  • WS: wrong side

Colour layout

 

stay in the loop

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Crochet pattern

Front

First Motif

Make a magic ring.

Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (doesn’t count as st), (3hdc, ch2) 4 times, join with ss in first st. [12 hdc, 4 ch-2 sps]

Round 2 (RS) Ch1, *3hdc, (1hdc, ch2, 1hdc) in ch-2 sp, repeat from * another 3 times, join with ss in first st. [16 hdc, 4 ch-2 sps]

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Subsequent motifs

Work the subsequent motifs as the first motif, but join to adjacent motifs in the second round by working (1hdc, ch1, 1ss, ch1, 1hdc) in corner spaces.
Fasten off, weave in ends.

Front border (around front panel)

Note: You’ll work the edging with colours of the underlying squares, so it will look like it’s part of the square grid.
Colour changes are done in the stitch before the indicated colour change. Pull up your final loop of the stitch in the new colour.

Join Yarn A with a ss in the ss join of the third square down from right top corner (see colour layout), 1sc in ch-sp, 5sc, 1sc in corner-sp; repeat from * once more, 1sc in ch-sp, 5sc. Rotate work 90 degrees.

(1sc, ch2, 1sc) in corner ch-sp, 5sc, 1sc in ch-sp, *1sc in next ch-sp, 5sc, 1sc in ch-sp; repeat from * another 11 times, 1sc in ch-sp, 5sc, rotate work 90 degrees.

(1sc, ch2, 1sc) in corner ch-sp, 5sc, 1sc in ch-sp, *1sc in next ch-sp, 5sc, 1sc in ch-sp; repeat from * another 3 times. Change to Yarn B, repeat from * another time, 1sc in next ch-sp, 5sc, 1sc in ch-sp, change to Yarn C, *1sc in next ch-sp, 5sc, 1sc in ch-sp; repeat from * another time, change to Yarn D, 1sc in next ch-sp, 5sc, 1sc in ch-sp, change to Yarn E, *1sc in next ch-sp, 5sc, 1sc in ch-sp; repeat from * another 3 times, 1sc in next ch-sp, 5sc, rotate work 90 degrees.

(1sc, ch2, 1sc) in corner-sp, 5sc, 1sc in ch-sp, *1sc in next ch-sp, 5sc, 1sc in ch-sp; repeat from * another 11 times, 5sc, rotate work 90 degrees.

(1sc, ch2, 1sc) in corner ch-sp, 5sc, 1sc in ch-sp, *1sc in next ch-sp, 5sc, 1sc in ch-sp; repeat from * another 2 times, change to Yarn D, *1sc in next ch-sp, 5sc, 1sc in ch-sp; repeat from * another time, change to Yarn C, *1sc in next ch-sp, 5sc, 1sc in ch-sp; repeat from * another 2 times, change to Yarn B, *1sc in next ch-sp, 5sc, 1sc in ch-sp; repeat from * another time, Join with ss in first sc. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

If your Front isn’t measuring 48 x 48cm, this is the moment to block it to size.

Back

Note: both sides are reversible and thus have no Right or Wrong side.

Part 1 (big part)

With Yarn E, ch92.

Row 1 Starting in third ch from hook, 90hdc, ch2, turn. [90 hdc]

Row 2 90hdc, ch2, turn.

Repeat Row 1-2 another 23 times until you have 48 rows. Make sure to mark the first and last stitch of Row 41. Cut yarn.

Part 2 (small part)

With Yarn E, repeat Row 1-3 as for Part 1.

Row 4 (Buttonhole row) 6hdc, ch5, skip 5 sts, (13hdc, ch5, skip 5 sts) 4 times, 7hdc, ch1, turn. [65 hdc, 5 ch-5 sps]

Row 5 1hdc in each ch and st, ch2, turn. [90 hdc]

Repeat Row 5 another 25 times until you have 31 rows. Make sure to mark the first and last stitch of Row 8. Don’t cut yarn.

Back border (around back panels)

Note: We’ll be increasing stitch counts on each side to 98 sts to match the Front’s stitch count. We’ll also be joining the big and small part to form the back panel.

Border round Rotate your work 90 degrees. You’ll be working down the side of your Small Back part, 1sc in corner row-end, 2sc in next row-end, (1sc in row-end, 2sc in next row-end) 9 times (you’ve now reached the stitch markers of Row 8). Place the Big part under the Small part, work 1sc through both panels for each of the next 8 sts, (1sc in next row end, 2sc in next row-end) 20 times in Big part. Ch2, rotate work 90 degrees.

2sc, (2sc in next ch, 10sc) 8 times, ch2, rotate work 90 degrees.

(2sc in same row-end, 1sc in next row-end) 20 times. You’ve now reached the stitch markers of Row 41. Make sure the Small part is on top of the big part, and work 1sc through both panels for each of the next 8 sts, (1sc in row-end, 2sc in next row-end) 9 times, ch2, rotate work 90 degrees.

2sc, (2sc in next st, 10sc) 8 times, join with ss in second ch of beg ch-2. Cut yarn, fasten off.

If your back isn’t measuring 48 x 48cm, this is the moment to block it to size. Once it’s on size, sew the buttons on the big part aligning with their buttonholes on the small part. Weave in ends.

Joining Front and Back

Because you can see this join on the front side, we’ll be working the final joining with the colours of the underlying squares, just as we did previously for the front panel.

Joining round Place the two pieces with their WS together (that is, the WS of the Front and the side without any buttons of the Back). Please note you’ll be working BLO for both panels only. With Front towards you, count 35 sts up from your bottom left corner and join Yarn A with a ss. 35sc, turn work 90 degrees.

(1sc, ch2, 1sc) in corner ch-sp, 98sc, turn work 90 degrees.

(1sc, ch2, 1sc) in corner ch-sp, 28sc, change to Yarn B, 14sc, Change to Yarn C, 21sc, change to Yarn D, 14sc, Change to Yarn E, 21sc, turn work 90 degrees.

(1sc, ch2, 1sc) in corner ch-sp, 98sc, (1sc, ch2, 1sc) in corner ch-sp, 35sc, Change to Yarn D, 7sc, Change to Yarn C, 14sc, Change to Yarn B, 7sc. Cut yarn, fasten off.

Diagram

This crochet diagram is an illustration of how you can connect the corners of the squares. Note: this is not a representation of the actual colours used.

Diagram 1

Comments

Bec
What size buttons does this pattern call for? December 25, 2022 23:21 - Reply
Kirsten
I used 3cm buttons in diameter! December 28, 2022 08:31 - Reply
Bec
Thank you! January 12, 2023 00:06 - Reply
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