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XOXO baskets

27.Aug.18 / Kirsten Ballering

The XOXO baskets are designed to accompany the XOXO pillow. You can create one basket with the leftover yarns from the pillow!

The pattern for the XOXO baskets is also available as a print-friendly, styled and advertisement free PDF in the Haak maar Raak shop.

Materials

Highland Sunrise

Scheepjes Cahlista (100% cotton, 50g/85m)
  • Colour A: 528 Silver Blue x 8 balls
  • Colour B: 106 Snow White x 1 ball
  • Colour C: 238 Powder Pink x 1 ball
  • Colour D: 246 Icy Pink x 1 ball
  • Colour E: 222 Tulip x 1 ball
  • Colour F: 519 Fresia x 1 ball
  • Colour G: 114 Shocking Pink x 1 ball
  • Colour H: 128 Tyrian Purple x 1 ball

Island Oasis

Scheepjes Cahlista (100% cotton, 50g/85m)
  • Colour A: 509 Baby Blue x 8 balls
  • Colour B: 245 Green Yellow x 1 ball
  • Colour C: 512 Lime x 1 ball
  • Colour D: 212 Sage Green x 1 ball
  • Colour E: 253 Tropic x 1 ball
  • Colour F: 146 Vivid Blue x 1 ball
  • Colour G: 400 Petrol Blue x 1 ball
  • Colour H: 124 Ultramarine x 1 ball

Tropical Sunset

Scheepjes Cahlista (100% cotton, 50g/85m)
  • Colour A: 105 Bridal White x 8 balls
  • Colour B: 411 Sweet Orange x 1 ball
  • Colour C: 189 Royal Orange x 1 ball
  • Colour D: 115 Hot Red x 1 ball
  • Colour E: 114 Shocking Pink x 1 ball
  • Colour F: 251 Garden Rose x 1 ball
  • Colour G: 282 Ultra Violet x 1 ball
  • Colour H: 521 Deep Violet x 1 ball

Shop the yarn

You can buy Scheepjes Cahlista at Scheepjes retailers such as:

Crochet hook

4.0mm (US size G/6).

Measurements

Each basket measures approximately 22cm (8.5in) in diameter and 19cm (7.5in) in height.

Gauge/Tension

Gauge is not critical for this project.

Notes

When you’re working a FP-stitch around another stitch, don’t forget to leave the stitch behind the FP-stitch on the row you’re working on unworked (this is the stitch you would normally work when you would do a regular sc or dc).

When you work up your FPtr’s on the side, it’s normal that they seem to lean a little bit to the side. This is something that happens when you work in the round. Embrace it, it’s a feature!

Abbreviations

  • BLO: back loop only
  • ch: chain
  • dc: double crochet
  • FPdc: Front Post double crochet
  • FPtr: Front Post treble crochet
  • RS: right side
  • sc: single crochet
  • ss: slip stitch
  • st(s): stitch(es)

Crochet pattern

Bottom

With Colour A, make a magic loop (or alternatively, ch3 and join to first ch with ss). Leave a yarn tail of approximately 20cm to weave in later.

Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as st), 11dc in loop, join with ss in 3rd ch of beginning ch3. [12 dc]

Round 2 Ch3, (counts as st), FPdc around ch3 of previous round, *1dc in next st, FPdc around same st; repeat from * another 10 times, join with ss in top of beginning ch3. [24 dc]

Round 3 Ch3 (doesn’t count as st throughout from here), 1dc in same st, *1dc in next st, FPdc around previous round’s FPdc, 1dc in next st; repeat from * another 10 times, 1dc in next st, 1FPdc around previous round’s FPdc, join with ss in top of first dc skipping the ch3. [36 dc]

Round 4 Ch3, 1dc in same st, 1dc, *1dc in next st, FPdc around previous round’s FPdc, 2dc; repeat from * another 10 times, 1dc in next st, FPdc around previous round’s FPdc, join in top of first dc skipping the ch3. [48 dc]

Round 5 Ch3, 1dc in same st, 2dc, *1dc in next st, FPdc around previous round’s FPdc, 3dc; repeat from * another 10 times, 1dc in next st, FPdc around previous round’s FPdc, join in top of first dc skipping the ch3. [60 dc]

Round 6 Ch3, 1dc in same st, 3dc, *1dc in next st, FPdc around previous round’s FPdc, 4dc; repeat from * another 10 times, 1dc in next st, FPdc around previous round’s FPdc, join in top of first dc skipping the ch3. [72 dc]

Round 7 Ch3, 1dc in same st, 4dc, *1dc in next st, FPdc around previous round’s FPdc, 5dc; repeat from * another 10 times, 1dc in next st, FPdc around previous round’s FPdc, join in top of first dc skipping the ch3. [84 dc]

Round 8 Ch3, 1dc in same st, 5dc, *1dc in next st, FPdc around previous round’s FPdc, 6dc; repeat from * another 10 times, 1dc in next st, FPdc around previous round’s FPdc, join in top of first dc skipping the ch3. [96 dc]

Round 9 Ch1, 1sc BLO in each st around, join with ss in first sc. Cut yarn. [96 sc]

Working up the sides

Round 10 Join Colour H with a ss in any sc. Ch3 (counts as st from here on), 1dc in each st around, join with ss in first st. [96 dc]

Round 11 Ch3, 1dc in each st around. Join with ss in first st. Cut yarn.

Round 12 Join Colour G with a ss in any dc. Ch3, 4dc, 1FPtr around dc 2 rows below, (5dc, 1FPtr) 15 times, join with ss in first st. [80 dc, 16 FPtr]

Round 13 Repeat Round 11.

Repeat Rounds 12-13 for Colours F, E, D, and C. Repeat Round 12 again with Colour B. Make sure that when you join a new colour, you join in the same stitch as you did for the previous colour to make sure the FPtr align with each other each row.

Last Row With Colour B, ch1, 1sc in each st, join with ss in first sc. Cut yarn, fasten off. [96 sc].

Weave in all your ends.

Optional: Stiffening the baskets

The baskets will hold their shape better if you stiffen up the baskets. You can do this in multiple ways, but I prefer to do this with wallpaper glue. You’ll need something to hold the shape of your baskets. I used a big glass container but a straight vase or even a round plastic box will work too, as long as the baskets fit snug around it.

To get started, simply follow the instructions on the wallpaper glue package. It usually says to mix the powder with water and to mix it properly before applying. Once the glue is ready, simply use a sponge brush or any other brush you have at hand to really saturate your baskets with glue. Don’t be shy, but make sure there are no lumps of undissolved powder on your basket. When you finish, make sure to pay extra attention to the ends of your basket to make them nice and straight. This is your chance as they will dry up in the shape you’ll leave them.

Leave your basket to dry completely (might take up to 48 hours, easily!) and then carefully peel it off of your container. I used the end of a spatula for this. If necessary, repeat the process.

Changing the size of the baskets

To increase or decrease the size of the baskets, adjust the number of rounds for the bottom. To make a smaller basket, stop increasing the bottom once you’ve reached your desired size, and work Round 9. Work the instructions for the sides as given, but simply work less than 10 repeats, how much repeats you need to complete a round depends on how small your basket is. As long as your bottom circle stitch count is divisible by 6 this won’t be a problem.

To increase the size of your basket, keep increasing the bottom circle by following the set pattern in rounds 2-8, so adding one extra stitch in between the increases each round. Repeat Round 9 once you’ve reached your desired size. For the sides, simply repeat the instructions as given but increase the number of repeats. As long as your bottom circle stitch count is divisible by 6 this won’t be a problem. Please note that you will need more yarn if you increase the size of your basket.

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