This is the English version of the pattern. For the dutch (Nederlandse) version, please click here!
Today I want to share with you the pattern for the Catherine Wristies. They match the Catherine cowl perfectly and make a great pair!
Scheepjes Cotton 8 (fingering 100% cotton, 50g/170m) in the following colours:
- Yarn A: 717 x 1 ball
- Yarn B: 653 x 1 ball
- Yarn C: 510 x 1 ball
- Yarn D: 654 x 1 ball
Where can you buy yarn for the Catherine Wristies?
You can buy Scheepjes Cotton 8 from your local Scheepjes retailer. If you have no retailer nearby, you can check one of the following webshops:
3.5mm crochet hook (US size E/4)
approx. 18cm (7in) in height, fits wrist circumference of 21cm (8.25in).
In the tutorial for the Catherine Cowl I included a photo tutorial on the Catherine wheel. You can follow this tutorial (including colours). The only thing that differs is the starting chain. For the wristies you start with 49 chains (48 + 1 turning chain), and you’ll end with 49sc in Row 1.
If you’d like your wristies larger in circumference, you can add a multiple of 8 stitches (so 48+8, 48+16 etc). The other way around, making the wristies smaller, works exactly the same. Keep in mind that this stitch doesn’t stretch very much! The chain circumference (without stretching it) is pretty accurate for how wide your wristies will be.
Follow the Catherine cowl tutorial until your wristies are approximately 10-12cm (4-4.75in) in length. This depends on your personal preference and wrist shape. For me, this took 6 rows of complete wheels (+ the first row of half wheels). If you reached this length, you can follow the Cowl tutorial for the top row, where you’ll secure the top side half wheel-row. Now you’ll have a piece with straight edges, and we can continue with the edging!
Please note: unless otherwise indicated, crochet through both loops.
Row 1 (RS) Join colour B with a ss in the first st. 2sc in the first st, *3sc in ch-sp, 1sc in the eye of dc7tog, 3sc in ch-sp, 1sc in sc of previous row; repeat from * to end, finish with 2sc in last st, cut yarn. [48 sc] (photo 1)
Row 2 Join colour B with ss in first st, 2sc in first st, 1sc in each st to end, cut yarn. [49 sc] (photo 2).
Row 3 To make a double edging, you need to make two separate rows: one in the front loop, and one in the back loop (cutting yarn after every row). I think it’s easier to start with the back loop so you can see the front loop afterwards. Join colour B with a ss in back loop of first st, 1sc in back loop of each st. [49 sc] If you do so, you’ll see a row of loops in front of this row (photo 3, arrows). Join colour B with a ss in front loop of first st, 1sc in front loop of each st. [49 sc] (photo 4).
Now you have 2 separate rows: the front loop row and the back loop row. The instructions for these rows are indicated separately in the remaining pattern instructions.
Row 4 (everything is worked in the back loops only)
Back loop row: Join colour B with ss in first st, 1sc in each sc across, cut yarn. Next, join colour C with a ss in first st, 9sc, 30hdc, 10sc, cut yarn. [49 sts] (photo 5, the arrow indicates where the hdc begin)
Front loop row: Join colour C with ss in first st, 9sc, 30hdc, 10sc, cut yarn.[49 sts]
Back loop row: Join colour D with ss in first st, 1sc in each st across. [49 sc] (photo 7)
Front loop row: Join colour D with ss in first st, 1sc in each st across. [49 sc] (photo 7)
Back loop row: Join colour A with a ss in first st, 1sc in next st, (1hdc, picot, 1hdc) in same st, 1sc, *1ss, 1sc, (1hdc, picot, 1hdc) in same st, 1sc; repeat 10 times more, 1ss in last st, cut yarn (photo 8-9).
The spikes on both rows look best if they’re misaligned, so the front loop row is slightly out of phase with the back loop row.
Front loop row: Join colour A with a ss in first st, (ch2, picot, 1hdc) in same st, 1sc, *1ss, 1sc (1hdc, picot, 1hdc) in same st, 1sc; repeat from * another 10 times, 1ss, 1sc, (1hdc, picot, 1hdc) in final st, cut yarn (photo 11).
I absolutely recommend wet blocking for the wristies at this point, before sewing them up. Have a look at my blocking tutorial here.
Now you need to join the edges. I joined them until the top red row (photo 13, arrows). This place might be different for you, but you need to join the wristies until they fit over your hands and the edging is around your knuckles. Finally, weave in the remaining ends.
That’s it! Enjoy your matching pair of wristies and cowl!