It has been a little quiet the past weeks here, and I’m here to make up for that.
Today I want to share with you my all-time favourite pattern for potholders. I’ve been making these for quite some time, even selling some of them in my Etsy store. But I like to share what I have, so I’m putting it out here for everyone to enjoy! This is a pattern for round potholders. I’ve named them the ‘Dutch skies potholders’, as they resemble the sometimes clouded, grey stormy and bright blue sky here.
Please note, I created this pattern by myself through lots of trial and error. resemblances to other patterns are purely coincidental!
So what do you need for a set of gorgeous potholders? Not that much actually!
You need 5 skeins of cotton (I used Phildar Phil Coton 3 and 1 brandless skein), available on Deramores, a 4,5 mm crochet hook (7 in US terms), a pair of scissors and a darning needle. I have used the colours Faience, Pacifique, Canard and Minerai for the joining and edging, and the center colour is a brandless grey/blue colour.
You might have noticed that for Phildar phil coton 3, a 4,5 mm crochet hook seems rather big. That’s true, it is larger than the recommended size. However, I like my potholders large and supple. That’s why I chose this big size. When you put 2 layers of crochet on eachother spaces in the work are barely noticeable. Plus, the size that the 4,5 mm creates equals working with a 3,5 mm and adding an extra round at the end, but thereby deviates from the colour pattern and palette I like to use.
But enough chitchat, on to the pattern!
Body (make 4)
Round 1 (grey/blue colour):
You will need a magic loop. A magic loop is a way of creating a circle center without leaving a hole behind. You start with making a loop.
Then put your hook through the loop, yarn over and pull the new made loop through your big loop:
Make a chain next to secure your magic loop:
There it is. Now you can start on working your first stitch. Ch 2 more (3 ch counts as first DC). make 13 DCs more and close the loop by tugging on the loose end(14 DC in total). I’ve struggled with various numbers of starting DC’s, but I found 14 made the best circle.
Slip stitch the last DC to the 3th ch of starting DC. That’s the end of your first round.
With the same colour, Ch 3 to make your first DC of round 2.
Next, DC 2 in the next stitch.
DC 2 in every stitch untill the end . In the slip stitch of the previous round you will also make 1 DC as indicated by the drawn arrow. Slip stitch the last DC to the 3th chain of starting DC (28 stitches total).
Join a new colour (Faience). Ch 3 (counts as first DC). DC in the same stitch again. DC in next stitch. Repeat * DC 2 in 1 stitch, DC 1 in next stitch* untill the end. Basically, you’re increasing every other stitch. This is necessary to keep your circle nice and flat, instead of concave or ruffling.
Join the last DC with a slip stitch to the 3th ch of the starting DC.
Ch 3, DC in next stitch. *DC 2 in 1 stitch, DC 1 in next 2 stitches each untill the end. In the last stitch, you will notice that you end with 2 DC’s in the same stitch. This is right, because you started with the last part of the repeat, the ‘DC 1 in next 2 stitches each’ this round. This will occur throughout the whole pattern. As long as the combination of your last repeat and the start of your row give you a complete repeat you’re still on the right track!
Join a new colour (Pacifique). Ch 3 as a starting DC, then crochet 1 DC in the same stitch. Make one DC in each of the next 3 stitches. Repeat * DC 2 in 1 stitch, DC 1 in each of next 3 stitches* untill the end of the round. Slip stitch first to last stitch.
Ch 3 as a starting DC, then crochet 1 DC in the next stitch. Repeat *DC 2 in 1 stitch, DC 1 in each of the next 4 stitches* untill the end. You will notice that your last repeat cannot be completed fully as explained in round 4. Fasten off.
Join a new colour (Canard). Ch 3 as a starting DC, then crochet 1 DC in the same stitch. Make 1 DC in each of the next 5 stitches. Repeat * DC 2 in 1 stitch, DC 5 in next 5 stitches* untill the end of the round. Slip stitch first to last stitch.
Ch 3 as a starting DC, then crochet 1 DC in the next stitch. Repeat *DC 2 in 1 stitch, DC 1 in each of the next 6 stitches* untill the end. You will notice that your last repeat cannot be completed fully as explained in round 4. Fasten off.
Congrats! You made it this far, now bear with me for the joining and edging.
Put two of the bodies with their wrong sides together so the right sides are facing outward.
Next, take your edging colour (Minerai) and make a chain through stitches of both the sides. (There is a more elegant way to do this, as Moogly has devised a standing HDC. However I still need to look into it so I used my old faithful method). HDC in the same stitch. You can use a SC as well, but I liked the extra height the HDC provides. Again, large and supple are the keywords here!
Now HDC all the way around the coasters.
I join the first and last HDC in a special way, as described for round 4 in this post. However, if you’re not comfortable doing that a slip stitch will do just fine. Fasten off.
I’m a big fan of picots. When I say big fan, I mean that I use it on almost all my patterns and blankets. The picot makes for a nice point which simply looks great on these potholders.
Take your edging colour (Minerai again) and ch in a stitch.
Skip 2 stitches and DC 3 in 1 stitch.
Ch 2, and put your crochet hook through the first Ch. Yarn over, and pull your hook through all loops on the hook (picot made). DC 3 more in the same stitch, skip 2 stitches and slip stitch in the next. (First cluster of edging made).
Repeat this untill you’ve worked the round. You will notice that your last edging cluster cannot be completed without overlapping 1 stitch in the first cluster. That’s the intend as it makes your hanging loop in the next step rather nice and sturdy. Finish your last cluster by slipstitching it into the first skipped stitch of your first cluster.
Next, ch 12 and slip stitch this ch to the same stitch as where you started.
Turn your work, and HDC in the hanging loop. Around 25-30 HDC should be enough to make a nice sturdy loop!
There you go! You only need to darn in the ends. I usually steamblock my potholders to make them nice and flat. Gently steam the potholders, be carefull not to overheat your cotton.
Congrats! You have just made a beautiful pair of potholders that will probably outlive you and your grandchildren (seriously, these things are durable).
If you want to pimp your potholders up even more,you could use surface crochet (as described in this pattern) before you join the two bodies together. Like these two sets!
Yes, this blogpost contains affiliate links. They help me keep my blog running!
Copyright of Haak maar Raak
This pattern is for unlimited personal use. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from the designer before offering any kits for sale. For questions, please contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org.