Baby Rainbow Sampler Blanket (part 8)

Find the other parts of the Baby Rainbow Sampler blanket here:

• Part 1
• Part 2
• Part 3
• Part 4
• Part 5
• Part 6
• Part 7
• Part 8
• Part 9
• Part 10
• Part 11

Notes

• Don't forget: Blue colour codes are for the Rainbow version!

Colour layout

Techniques

Shell Stitch

Click here for the tutorial about the shell stitch.

Herringbone Stitch

Click here for the tutorial about the herringbone stitch.

Shell Section 2 (rows 101-106)

This shell pattern is the same as the previous shell section, however, due to the use of colour it looks completely different. It’s amazing to see what a difference colour placement can make!

In a ‘standard’ shell pattern you work the shells in the single crochets (or similar stitches, this depends on the pattern) that you crochet between shells of the previous row. Doing so creates a flat and lacy pattern. If you crochet in the spaces between shells instead of in single crochets like we do, you create a denser, thicker fabric. Perfect for a blanket, not so perfect for a shawl. As you see, there are many ways to vary on a standard shell pattern.

Row 101 (WS) Join Colour F (R) with a ss in first st, (ch4 (counts as first dc + 1 ch), 2dc) in same st, skip 4 sts, *(2dc, ch2, 2dc) in same st, skip 4 sts; repeat from * another 26 times, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in same st, skip 3 sts, (2dc, ch1, 1dc) in final st, ch1, turn. [28 shells, 2 half shells (one on each end), 28 spaces where you skipped 4 sts, 1 space where you skipped 3 sts]

Row 102 (RS) Join Colour G (S) with a ss in first dc, ch1, 1sc in ch-1 space of first half shell, *(2dc, ch2, 2dc) in space between shells from previous row, 1sc in ch-2 space of next shell; repeat from * another 27 times, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in space between shells from previous row, 1sc in ch-1 space of half shell, cut yarn, turn. [29 shells, 30 sc]

Row 103 (WS) Join Colour F (R) with a ss in the ch-1 space of Row 101 (so not in the sc that you’ve ended Row 102 with, but in the space below), ch4 (counts as first dc + ch1), 2dc in same ch-1 space, 1sc in ch-2 space of next shell of Row 102, *(2dc, ch2, 2dc) in next space between shells (this is also the ch-2 space in the first complete shell of Row 101), 1sc in ch-2 space of next shell in Row 102; repeat from * another 26 times, (2dc, ch1, 1dc) in ch-1 space of half shell in Row 101, cut yarn, turn. [28 shells, 2 half shells (one on each end), 29 sc]

Row 104 (RS) Repeat Row 102. [29 shells, 30 sc]

The next row is a compensation row. You will need to compensate for the difference in height in the shells before we can resume our regular 145 hdc-rows.

Row 105 (WS) Join Colour A with a ss in first st, ch3 (counts as first dc), mark the third ch with a stitch marker, *1hdc in each of the next 2 sts, skip ch-2 space, 1hdc in each of the next 2 sts, 1dc in sc; repeat from * another 27 times, 1hdc in each of next 2 sts, skip ch-2 space, 1hdc in next st, 1hdc2tog in last 2 sts, ch1, turn. [115 hdc, 29 dc, 1hdc2tog]

Row 106 (RS) 145hdc, cut yarn, don’t turn. [145 hdc]

The stitch markers help you find the chains in which to crochet your hdc’s in. You can remove them now.

Herringbone Section (rows 107-114)

The Herringbone stitch is a stitch I found quite early in my crochet journey. It’s an adaptation of the regular hdc. By changing the way you work your loops you create a diagonal loop that resembles the traditional (knit) herringbone stitch. One of the ‘downsides’ of this stitch is that it doesn’t work in rows, so we’ll have to start at the RS for each row in this section.

The herringbone stitch is quite rough for a crocheted stitch. It’s a great stitch for protective cases, bathmats, anything that needs to be able to withstand a bit of wear and tear really.

Don’t forget that you are starting on the RS again!

Row 107 (RS) Join Colour I (R) with a ss in first st, ch1, 1hhdc in same st, 144hhdc, ch1, cut yarn, don’t turn. [145 hhdc]

Don’t forget to double-check that your herringbone stitch is showing on the right side of your blanket. It’s the side with the rougher (and prettier) texture. Also, please make sure that you’re actually joining your new row into the first hhdc. These stitches, by nature, lean to the left, so be careful that you’re not accidentally joining in the ch1 you started your row with (and subsequently, end up with 146 hhdc).

Row 108 (RS) Start on RS again. Join Colour I (R) with a ss in first st, ch1, 1hhdc in same st, 144hhdc, cut yarn, don’t turn. [145 hhdc]

Row 109 (RS) Start on RS again. Join Colour T (S) with a ss in first st, ch1, 1hhdc in same st, 144hhdc, cut yarn, don’t turn. [145 hhdc]

Row 110 (RS) Start on RS again. Join Colour T (S) with a ss in first st, ch1, 1hhdc in same st, 144hhdc, cut yarn, don’t turn. [145 hhdc]

Row 111 (RS) Start on RS again. Join Colour P (T) with a ss in first st, ch1, 1hhdc in same st, 144hhdc, cut yarn, don’t turn. [145 hhdc]

Row 112 (RS) Start on RS again. Join Colour P (T) with a ss in first st, ch1, 1hhdc in same st, 144hhdc, cut yarn, don’t turn. [145 hhdc]

Row 113 (RS) Start on RS again. Join Colour A with a ss in first st, ch1, 1hdc in same st, 1hdc in each of the next 144 sts, ch1, turn. [145 hdc]

Row 114 (WS) 145hdc, cut yarn, turn. [145 hdc]

Continue with part 9 of the pattern.

Diagram