8-bit love C2C pillow28.Dec.20 / Kirsten Ballering
Learn a new technique with this beginner corner-to-corner crochet pattern! The eight-bit love pattern is perfect when you're new to C2C crochet, and delivers a plump and quirky cushion cover.
- Colour A: 219 Oxygen x 2 balls
- Colour B: 207 Apple Blossom x 1 ball
- Colour C: 211 Gentle Primrose x 1 ball
- Colour D: 209 Desert Bloom x 1 ball
- 1x 50 x 50cm (20 x 20in) pillowcase, I used ‘SANELA’ from IKEA
- A few head pins
- Needle and white sewing thread
- 50 x 50cm (20x20in) pillow insert
Shop the yarn!
You can find Scheepjes Organicon via Scheepjes retailers, such as:
Sewn on a 50 x 50cm (20 x 20in) pillowcase.
9 by 9 blocks measure 12 x 12cm (4.75. 4.75in).
- Colour change is done in the last st before the colour change as follows: work the final stitch (which is the third dc) until the last yarn over, take hook from loop, pick up a strand of the new colour, yarn over and pull through loop.
- Because we’ll be making a pillowcase, I decided to leave the unworked yarn colour hanging on the WS.
- You’ll first make the C2C front. Once finished, you’ll work an edge of hdc around the front. Finally, you’ll sew the front to the pillow to the pillowcase.
- ch: chain
- dc: double crochet
- hdc: half double crochet
- RS: right side
- ss: slip stitch
- WS: wrong side
- *….; rep from * once/twice/3x Crochet the instructions after * and then repeat that section a further number of times as indicated.
- *…; rep to end Crochet the instructions after * and then repeat that section to the end of the row or round.
- […] Indicates the amount of stitches at the end of a row or round.
- (…) in same st/sp Indicates that all instructions between brackets are worked in the same stitch or space.
C2C is worked diagonally. That's why the first half of the pillow consists of increasing, and the second half consists of decreasing.
With Colour A, ch6.
Row 1 1dc in 4th ch from hook, 1dc in each of next 2 ch, turn. [1 block consisting of 3dc and 1 ch3]
Row 2 Ch6, 1dc in 4th ch from hook, 1dc in each of next 2 ch, ss in ch-3 sp of block in previous row, ch3, 3dc in ch-3 sp, turn. [2 blocks, each consisting of 3 dc and 1 ch3]
Row 3 Ch6, 1dc in 4th ch from hook, 1dc in each of next 2 ch, ss in ch-3 sp of block in previous row, ch3, 3dc in ch-3 sp, ss in ch-3 sp of block in previous row, ch3, 3dc in ch-3 sp, turn. [3 blocks, each consisting of 3 dc and 1 ch3]
Row 4 Ch6, 1dc in 4th ch from hook, 1dc in each of next 2 ch, ss in ch-3 sp of block in previous row, *ch3, 3dc in ch-3 sp, ss in ch-3 sp of block in previous row; repeat from * another time, ch3, 3dc in ch-3 sp, turn. [4 blocks, each consisting of 3 dc and 1 ch3]
Reading the diagram
The repeated section in the row above is key to increasing the number of blocks each row. Each row you add another repeat, causing the pillow to grow along both sides. You follow the pattern set in the C2C diagram (at bottom of the pattern). Each row is worked diagonally over the previous blocks. Count the blocks to see how many you need to make in each colour per row. I find it best to simply strike through the rows that I've made with a pencil, to keep track of my progress. Like this:
Next Rows Follow this diagram to your first colour change (which is in Row 10). Follow the instructions below for the colour change. Make your pillow (including colour changes) up to Row 34, then continue with the instructions for decreasing.
Take a strand of the colour you need to change to. Right before the last yarn over of the third dc of a block, yarn over in the new colour and pull through. You’ve finished the dc in the old colour, and have a loop of the new colour on your hook. Ss in the ch-3 sp of the next block to secure your new colour. Changing back to the original colour is done in the same way, by simply picking up the strand of the original colour right before you finish the third dc of a block.
Since you’re sewing the pillowcase to a pillow later, you can leave the strands of yarn on one side of your work. Make sure it’s the same side every time.
This pillow is not completely square because of the equal white space above and below the heart motifs. The design consists of 34 blocks in height, and 35 in length (this will not be noticeable once it's sewed on). This does mean that the top-right and bottom-left corners are not made on the same row. Rather, you start decreasing in Row 34 to create the top-right corner, and in Row 35 to create the bottom-left corner (see diagram below). Decreasing is done in the final block of each row.
Row 34 Crochet blocks as before, following the diagram. Once you've crocheted the final block of the row, ch1, turn work and crochet 4ss, one in each of the three dc and one in the 3rd ch of your ch-3. This brings you to the starting position for the next row. The ss are indicated as red dots in the diagram below.
Row 35 *Ch3, 3dc in ch-3 sp, ss in ch-3 sp of block in previous row; repeat from * until end, ch1, turn work, 4ss.
Next Rows Continue working the decreasing rows as Row 35 with colour changes where indicated in the chart. When you reach Row 68, omit the final 'ch1, turn work, 4ss' and fasten off.
Edging round (RS) Join Colour A with a ss in any corner. Ch1 (doesn't count as st), 3hdc in each block, either around the stem of the top dc/chains if the block lays flat or in the top of the ss if the block lays vertical. Work (1hdc, ch2, 1hdc) in each corner st, join with ss in first st. Fasten off.
After finishing the edge, block your pillow front to 48-49 cm on each side. It should be slightly smaller than the pillowcase (so-called ‘negative ease’). Lay your pillowcase flat and place the front on top, RS facing towards you. Pin the pillow in place in the corners, and halfway through each side. Use a sharp needle and white sewing thread to sew the back loop of each stitch to the pillowcase with small backstitches. Because you’re sewing in the back loop the front loop will slightly fall over the edge, hiding your stitches from sight. It will make for a neat finish. Fasten off and put the pillow insert inside the case.