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Baby Rainbow Sampler Blanket 2 (Part 7)

18.Jul.24 / Kirsten Ballering

The Baby Rainbow Sampler Blanket 2 is a small version of the Big Rainbow Sampler Blanket 2. It features all the different stitches used in the original blanket, just smaller. It's a great project for an ambitious beginner who wants to learn more crochet stitches and perfect for gifting to your loved ones. This blanket is a journey in itself!

You can find the other pattern parts here:

The pattern for the Baby Rainbow Sampler Blanket 2 (Part 7) is also available as a styled and advertisement- free PDF in the Haak Maar Raak shop.

Materials and preparation

The pattern is available in two colourways: A Organicon rainbow colourway, and a Catona gradient colourway. Instructions for both colourways are included in the pattern. Be aware that they do use different amounts of each colour for each version.

Yarn

Organicon Rainbow

Scheepjes Organicon (100% Soft Organic Cotton, 50g/170m)
  • Colour A: 219 Oxygen x 4 balls
  • Colour B: 259 Lucky Heather x 1 ball
  • Colour C: 257 Perfect Plum x 1 ball
  • Colour D: 246 Dahlia x 1 ball
  • Colour E: 247 Swaying Tulip x 1 ball
  • Colour F: 248 Pink Elephant x 1 ball
  • Colour G: 245 Amaranth x 1 ball
  • Colour H: 244 Red Rose x 1 ball
  • Colour I: 224 Deep Tangerine x 1 ball
  • Colour J: 238 Happy Sunflower x 1 ball
  • Colour K: 239 Baby Chick x 1 ball
  • Colour L: 213 Sapling x 1 ball
  • Colour M: 228 Olive x 1 ball
  • Colour N: 215 Bright Ocean x 1 ball
  • Colour O: 264 Happy Thoughts x 1 ball
  • Colour P: 268 Sleepy Cyan x 1 ball
  • Colour Q: 267 Ticklish Turquoise x 1 ball
  • Colour R: 255 Bluebell x 1 ball

Catona Gradient

Scheepjes Catona (100% Cotton, 50g/125m)
  • Colour A: 106 Snow White x 6 balls
  • Colour B: 522 Primrose x 1 ball
  • Colour C: 208 Yellow Gold x 1 ball
  • Colour D: 386 Peach x 1 ball
  • Colour E: 410 Rich Coral x 1 ball
  • Colour F: 256 Cornelia Rose x 1 ball
  • Colour G: 519 Fresia x 1 ball
  • Colour H: 222 Tulip x 1 ball
  • Colour I: 246 Icy Pink x 1 ball
  • Colour J: 172 Light Silver x 1 ball
  • Colour K: 385 Chrystalline x 1 ball
  • Colour L: 253 Tropic x 1 ball
  • Colour M: 510 Sky Blue x 1 ball
  • Colour N: 399 Lilac Mist x 1 ball
  • Colour O: 520 Lavender x 1 ball
  • Colour P: 398 Colonial Rose x 1 ball
  • Colour Q: 251 Garden Rose x 1 ball
  • Colour R: 413 Cherry x 1 ball

Shop the yarn!

Do you want to make this blanket? You can find the yarn for this blanket in several stores, such as:

Crochet hook

3.5mm (US size E/4) for both versions.

Measurements

Organicon blanket measures 110 x 85cm (43 x 33½in) after blocking. Catona blanket measures 122 x 94cm (48 x 37in).

Gauge/tension

Gauge is not critical for this pattern. If you want precise gauge instructions, check out Part 1.

Notes

  • The pattern for this blanket is long. To keep track of where you are, I’ve divided it into different parts. Each part introduces a new section with Techniques and also contains a crochet diagram.
  • In most rows you’ll make a ch1 before turning your blanket. This is a turning chain and does not count as a stitch. If you find a ch1 is too small, you can also make a ch2. This depends on how tight you crochet.

Abbreviations (US terms)

  • begin-bobble: ch2, (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through two loops on hook) 5x in the same stitch or space, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
  • begin-puff stitch: ch1, (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop) 3x in the same stitch, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
  • bobble: (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through two loops on hook) 6x in the same stitch, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
  • ch: chain(s)
  • dc: double crochet
  • dc2tog: double crochet 2 stitches together to decrease the stitch count by 1: (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through first two loops on hook) once in each of two stitches, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
  • dc3tog: double crochet 3 stitches together to decrease the stitch count by 2: (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through first two loops on hook) once in each of three stitches, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
  • dc7tog: double crochet 7 stitches together to decrease the stitch count by 6: (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through first two loops on hook) once in each of seven stitches, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
  • FL: front loop
  • hdc: half double crochet
  • hdc2tog: half double crochet 2 stitches together to decrease the stitch count by 1: (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop) in each of two stitches, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
  • puff stitch: (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop) 4x in the same stitch, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
  • RS: right side
  • sc: single crochet
  • ss: slip stitch
  • s(ts): stitch(es)
  • tr: treble crochet
  • WS: wrong side

Repeat formats

  • *….; rep from * once/twice/3x Crochet the instructions after * and then repeat that section a further number of times as indicated.
  • (…) once/twice/3x Crochet the instructions between brackets the total number of times indicated.
  • […] Indicates the amount of stitches at the end of a row or round.
  • (…) in same st/sp Indicates that all instructions between brackets are worked in the same stitch or space.

Colour layout

Part 7 Weekly overview

Organicon Rainbow Part 7
Organicon Rainbow Part 7
Catona Gradient Part 7
Catona Gradient Part 7

Techniques

The techniques for this week have been placed on separate pages:

 

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Crochet pattern

Catherine Wheel section 2 (Rows 87-92)

We’re adding another Catherine wheel row to the blanket. I like the solid look of this stitch - especially after a couple of ‘airy’ stitches!

Row 87 (RS) Join Colour L with a ss in first st, 1sc in same st, *skip 2 sts, (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in same st, skip 2 sts, 1sc in next st; repeat from * another 22 times, skip 2 sts, (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in same st, skip 2 sts, 1sc in last stitch, cut yarn, turn. [25 sc, 24 3dc-ch1-3dc clusters, 48 spaces where you skipped 2 sts]

Row 88 (WS) Join Colour M with a ss in first st, ch3 (counts as first dc), dc3tog, ch7, skip ch-1 space, *dc7tog, ch7, skip ch-1 space; repeat from * another 22 times, dc3tog, 1dc in final st, turn. [23 half Catherine wheels, 2 quarter wheels (one on each end), 2 dc, 24 ch-7]

Row 89 (RS) Ch3 (counts as first dc), 3dc in dc3tog (there’s an ‘eye’ in the centre of the wheel, that’s where you’ll be working your stitches), 1sc over the ch7 of your previous row into the ch-1 space of Row 87, *(3dc, ch1, 3dc) in next dc7tog, 1sc over the ch7 of your previous row into the next ch-1 space of Row 87 repeat from * another 22 times, 3dc in final dc3tog, 1dc in last dc (the ch3 with which you started Row 88), cut yarn, turn. [23 half Catherine wheels, 2 quarter Catherine wheels (one on each end), 2 dc, 25 sc]

Since we’re only going to work one row of Catherine wheels, the next row will look like Row 88, but they are not precisely the same. If you crochet 7 chains as the ‘top’ row of the Catherine wheel, you can imagine that all your next rows would have quite a big gap. Instead, we’ll be securing the chain to the Catherine wheels. This way, you can continue with the rest of your blanket without significant gaps. We’re mirroring Row 87.

Row 90 (WS) Join Colour L with a ss in the first stitch, 1sc in same st, *ch3, dc7tog, ch3, 1sc in ch-1 space of Row 15; repeat from * another 22 times, ch3, dc7tog, ch3, 1sc in last dc (the ch3 with which you started Row 89). Cut yarn, turn. [25 sc, 24 dc7tog, 48 ch-3]

We’ll need to ensure we’re returning to 145 hdc in the next row. This means counting! Luckily, we can look to Row 87 for help. Each Catherine wheel took up 6 stitches (1 sc, 2 skipped stitches, a wheel, and 2 skipped stitches again). So we just need to make 6 stitches per Catherine wheel, plus the final stitch that we used to fasten the last wheel to get back to 145 stitches.

Row 91 (RS) Join Colour A with a ss in first st, ch1, 1hdc in same st, *2hdc in ch-3 space, 1hdc in dc7tog, 2hdc in next ch-3 space, 1hdc in sc; repeat from * another 22 times, 2hdc in ch-3 space, 1hdc in dc7tog, 2hdc in ch-3 space, 1hdc in last sc, ch1, turn. [145 hdc]

Row 92 (WS) 145hdc, cut yarn, turn. [145 hdc]

Puff section 2 (Rows 93-94)

Time to practice your puff stitches again!

Row 93 (RS) Join Colour L with a ss in the first stitch, begin-puff stitch in same st, *ch1, skip 1 st, puff st; repeat from * another 70 times, ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in last stitch, cut yarn, turn. [1 begin-puff st, 71 puff sts, 72 ch, 1 dc]

Row 94 (WS) Join Colour A with a ss in first dc, ch1, *1hdc in same st, 1hdc in next puff st; repeat from * another 71 times, 1hdc in last dc, cut yarn, turn. [145 hdc]

Tulip stitch section 2 (Rows 95-98)

Did you enjoy the first Tulip row? We’re making another one!

Row 95 (RS) Join Colour M with a ss in the first stitch, ch4, 1dc in same st as the first ch (so the first stitch), skip next 2 stitches, *(1dc, ch2, 1dc) in same stitch, skip next 2 stitches; repeat from * another 46 times, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last stitch, cut yarn, turn. [47 full V’s and 2 smaller V’s on both ends]

As you can see, this first row of the Tulip stitch resembles the V stitch. You can see the leaves of each tulip forming. Next, we will make bobble stitches to form the tulip’s flower. Bobbles are yet another way of creating volume.

Row 96 (WS) Join Colour N with a ss in the first V-space. Begin-bobble, *ch2, skip the dc’s, bobble in next V-space; repeat from * another 47 times, cut yarn, turn. [1 beg-bobble, 48 bobbles]

Row 97 (RS) Join Colour A with a ss in the top of the first bobble. Ch1, 1hdc in same stitch, 2hdc in the next ch-2 space, *1hdc in top of bobble, 2hdc in the next ch-2 space; repeat from * another 46 times, 1hdc in the final bobble, ch1, turn. [145 hdc]

The white row will most likely pull a bit inward here, especially on top of the first and last bobble stitch. But that’s okay - we’ll sort it out with the edging.

Row 98 (WS) 145hdc, cut yarn, turn. [145 hdc]

Granny Stripe section 5 (Rows 99-101)

We’re adding an extra row of Granny Stripes. It’s not in the original blanket, but I wanted a small, additional row of green here to enhance the gradient!

Row 99 (RS) Join Colour M with a ss in the first stitch, ch3 (counts as first dc), 1dc in same stitch, *skip 2 stitches, 3dc in next stitch; repeat from * another 46 times, skip 2 stitches, 2dc in last stitch, cut yarn, turn. [47 Granny clusters with 3 dc, 2 clusters with 2 dc, 145 dc in total]

Row 100 (WS) Join Colour A with a ss in first st, ch1, 1hdc in same st, 144hdc, ch1, turn. [145 hdc]

Row 101 (RS) 145hdc, cut yarn, turn. [145 hdc]

Baby Rainbow Sampler Blanket 2 Crochet pattern

Diagram

Baby Sampler 2 Part 7

Diagram 1

Key (US terms)

Diagram 2

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