Baby Rainbow Sampler Blanket 2 (Part 11)

The Baby Rainbow Sampler Blanket 2 is a small version of the Big Rainbow Sampler Blanket 2. It features all the different stitches used in the original blanket, just smaller. It's a great project for an ambitious beginner who wants to learn more crochet stitches and perfect for gifting to your loved ones. This blanket is a journey in itself!

You can find the other pattern parts here:

• Part 1
• Part 2
• Part 3
• Part 4
• Part 5
• Part 6
• Part 7
• Part 8
• Part 9
• Part 10
• Part 11
• Part 12

Crochet hook

3.5mm (US size E/4) for both versions.

Measurements

Organicon blanket measures 110 x 85cm (43 x 33½in) after blocking. Catona blanket measures 122 x 94cm (48 x 37in).

Gauge/tension

Gauge is not critical for this pattern. If you want precise gauge instructions, check out Part 1.

Notes

• The pattern for this blanket is long. To keep track of where you are, I’ve divided it into different parts. Each part introduces a new section with Techniques and also contains a crochet diagram.
• In most rows you’ll make a ch1 before turning your blanket. This is a turning chain and does not count as a stitch. If you find a ch1 is too small, you can also make a ch2. This depends on how tight you crochet.

Colour layout

Part 11 Weekly overview

Techniques

The techniques are placed on a separate page. You can find them here:

• Popcorns
• Tulip stitch

Popcorn section 3 (Rows 132-136)

The final section is made with popcorns. Enjoy!

Row 132 (WS) Join Colour Q with a ss in first stitch, ch1, 1hdc in same st, 144hdc, ch1, turn. [145 hdc]

Row 133 (RS) 8hdc, *popcorn, 7hdc; repeat from * another 15 times, popcorn, 8hdc, ch1, turn. [17 popcorn, 128 hdc]

Row 134 (WS) 145hdc, cut yarn, turn. [145 hdc]

Row 135 (RS) Join Colour A with a ss in first st, ch1, 1hdc in same st, 144hdc, ch1, turn. [145 hdc]

Row 136 (WS) 145hdc, cut yarn, turn. [145 hdc]

Tulip stitch section 3 Rows 137-140

We’ll finish this blanket's body with a final row of Tulip stitches. Maybe you have ideas on how to make this row truly your own. For example, with your favourite colours, or maybe with different colours in the same row, or maybe something else altogether?

Row 137 (RS) Join Colour R with a ss in the first stitch, ch4, 1dc in same st as the first ch (so the first stitch), skip next 2 stitches, *(1dc, ch2, 1dc) in same stitch, skip next 2 stitches; repeat from * another 46 times, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last stitch, cut yarn, turn. [47 full V’s and 2 smaller V’s on both ends]

As you can see, this first row of the Tulip stitch resembles the V stitch. You can see the leaves of each tulip forming. Next, we will make bobble stitches to form the tulip’s flower. Bobbles are yet another way of creating volume.

Row 138 (WS) Join Colour B (Colour P for Catona version!) with a ss in the first V-space. Begin-bobble, *ch2, skip the dc’s, bobble in next V-space; repeat from * another 47 times, cut yarn, turn. [1 beg-bobble, 48 bobbles]

Row 139 (RS) Join Colour A with a ss in the top of the first bobble. Ch1, 1hdc in same stitch, 2hdc in the next ch-2 space, *1hdc in top of bobble, 2hdc in the next ch-2 space; repeat from * another 46 times, 1hdc in the final bobble, ch1, turn. [145 hdc]

The white row will most likely pull a bit inward here, especially on top of the first and last bobble stitch. But that’s okay - we’ll sort it out with the edging.

Row 140 (WS) 145hdc, cut yarn. [145 hdc]

Weave in all your ends, if you haven’t done that already.

Preparing for the edge

Checking the shape

If you have the space and opportunity, I would recommend wet- or sprayblocking your blanket at this point. It helps to see where your blanket pulls inwards and possibly flares so you can counter this in your first couple of edging rows. If you don’t have the space, simply lay your blanket flat and have a look at whether and where it flares or pulls—write the section(s) down so you can refer to them when making the edging.

Blocking

After finishing Row 140, my Organicon blanket measured approximately 100 x 75cm (39 x 29½in). I blocked the blanket to around 115 x 85cm (45 x 33½in), but it’s more important for you to make it as rectangular as possible than to approximate my measurements (those might differ for everybody).

You can find a very extensive blocking tutorial here. Stretch the blanket to the point where you can pin it in a rectangular shape and where there are no ‘peaks’ forming where your pins are. If so, pin again and stretch the blanket a little less. Next, use a spray bottle with lukewarm water (and, optionally, some Eucalan) to make your blanket wet. Let it air dry, and then take out the pins.

The ideal scenario is that after you block your blanket, you remove the pins and leave it on the ground for another day so you can see the final shape once all external tension (from the pins) is removed. This gives you the best approximation of the final size of your blanket. After blocking, my Organicon blanket stretched back to approximately 110 x 80cm (43 x 31½in). The Catona one was slightly bigger.

Diagram