Colourful State of Mind Blanket

A caboodle of colours is the perfect remedy for a dull day. The Colourful State of Mind blanket is an intricately looking yet surprisingly simple blanket! Once you got a feel for these two-toned motifs, they will roll off your hook.

The blanket includes written instructions, a photo tutorial and a schematic for the visual learners. It’s suitable for the adventurous beginner and is written in US English terms.

Crochet hook

3.0mm.

Measurements

100 x 88cm (39.4 x 34.6in).

Gauge/tension

Motif measures 13cm (5.1in) from point to point and 12cm (4.75in) from side to side after Round 6, unblocked.

Notes

• The blanket is a join-as-you-go blanket. First, the full motifs are crocheted. Next, the top and bottom holes are filled up with half motifs. Finally, gaps on the side are filled with the Small and Corner motifs.
• Changing colours is done as follows: Finish your last stitch. Then, pick up a loop of the new colour and pull through loop on hook. This creates a chain in the old colour and an active loop of the new colour.
• When following the individual crochet diagrams, make sure to replace chains with slip stitches in the adjacent motifs in the final round. You can also check the joining diagram for the placement of the slip stitches.
• If you want to replace the Cotton 8 with Catona, you'll need approx. 75g of each colour and a 3.5mm hook. Because Catona's slightly thicker, your final blanket will be approx 120 x 100cm (47.25 x 39.3in).

Colour layout

Each motif (with the exception of the left corner motifs) consist of two colours. All the colours are used in alphabetical sequence, resulting in different colour combinations per hexagon.

The pattern uses the terms 'Colour 1 and Colour 2'. Use the schematic below to determine which two colours to use for a motif.

Do you want to choose your own colours? Then use my empty template below.

Techniques

The hexagon consists of two colours, indicated in the colour placement. To create the split between colours you will start each round with a beg-ss ch3. This creates a small 'anchor' to close your round in without showing. This will all become clear in the photo tutorial below.

Hexagon

Start to first colour change

With Colour 1, make a magic ring and ch4 (photo 1). Insert your hook in the third ch from hook, yarn over and pull up a loop (photo 2). Next, pull through the loop on hook to complete your beg-ss ch3 (photo 3).

The little ‘flap’ made by the fourth chain on the right side is where you’ll close your round later. It’s the replacement of one of the two chains that you crochet in each corner of the motif. The other chain will be made in Colour 2 at the end of the round.

Follow pattern instructions up until the colour change (photo 4). You've now finished the first half of Round 1 in Colour 1.

Second half of first round

Keep the strand of Colour 1 towards the back. Place your new colour on your hook (photo 5) and pull through the loop on your hook (photo 6). This action completes a chain in Colour 1, and gets you ready to work with Colour 2. Ch1 in the new colour (photo 7) and work the pattern instructions for the remainder of the round (photo 8). Join with a ss to the flap of the beg-ss ch3. This last chain in Colour 2 and the little flap from the beg-ss ch3 together form the ch2 that you work in each corner. (photo 9).

Second round

Start your second round by turning and working 1 ss in the ch-space (photo 10). Ch4, and make a beg-ss ch3 again (photo 11).

Follow the pattern instructions up until the colour change (photo 12).

Pick up the strand of Colour 1, ch1 and make a dc in the ch-space (photos 13-14).

Repeat the instructions for the remainder of the round and join with a ss in the beg-ss ch3 (photos 15-16).

Rounds 3-5

Continue working your rounds like this (photo 17). After five rounds, your motifs looks like photo 18.

Joining

We join our motifs with a flat ss join. This creates a beautiful flat appearance. The tutorial shows you how to join Motif 2 (pink/green) to Motif 1 (blue/orange). We only need to join the fourth side of Round 6, right after the colour change (see photo 19).

Please note: Motif 1 has six rounds and is fastened off completely (we finished the motif tutorial after Round 5. Motif 1 is the only motif with 6 non-joined sides).

Joining a side

You have just finished your final Colour change to green in Round 6. Take the motifs that need to be joined together with wrong sides together. Work 1ss in the chain space of the opposite motif (photo 20). This secures the motifs to each other.

Work 1dc in the ch-space of your original motif (photo 21). Next, remove your hook from the loop, and insert it in the back loop of the opposite stitch on the other motif (photo 22). Pick up the loop of your original motif again (photo 23) and pull through the loop on your hook (photo 24). In the pattern, this process is called 'picking up BL of opposite st'.

You'll see the back loop of the other motif appearing right above the loop on your stitch, creating a twisted appearance of the join.

Next, work a regular dc in the first stitch of your original motif. Remove your hook from its loop again, pick up the opposite back loop on the other motif, pick up the loop on the original motif again and pull through the loop on your hook (photos 25-28).

Continue doing so until you joined all stitches on the side. Finally, work 1dc in the next ch-space of the original motif and join to your other motif with a ss (photo 29). After finishing one side, it should look like photo 30.

Depending on which motifs you're joining, you either need to join another side or you can continue working non-joining sides as per the pattern instructions. The joining of half and small motifs is done in the same manner as the tutorial.

First motif

With Colour 1, make a magic ring.

Round 1 (WS) Beg-ss ch3, 1dc, (ch2, 2dc) 2x, change to other Colour, ch1, (2dc, ch2) 2 times, 2dc, ch1, join with ss in loose ch of beg-ss ch3. Close ring, turn work. [2 dc on each side, 6 ch-2 sps]

Round 2 (RS) 1ss in ch-sp, beg-ss ch3, *2dc, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in ch-sp; rep from * another time, 2dc, 1dc in ch-sp, change to other Colour, ch1, 1dc in ch-sp, *2dc, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in ch-sp; rep from * another time, 2dc, 1dc in ch-sp, ch1, join with ss in loose ch of beg-ss ch3 . Turn work. [4 dc on each side, 6 ch-2 sps]

You now clearly see the two halves of the hexagon taking shape.

Round 3 1ss in ch-sp, beg-ss ch3, *1dc in each st to end of side, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in ch-sp; rep from * another time, 1dc in each st to end of side, 1dc in ch-sp, change to other Colour, ch1, 1dc in ch-sp, *1dc in each st to end of side,(1dc, ch2, 1dc) in ch-sp; rep from * another time, 1dc in each st to end of side, 1dc in ch-sp, ch1, join with ss in loose ch of beg-ss ch3. Turn work. [6 dc on each side, 6 ch-2 sps]

Rounds 4-6 Rep Round 3. Cut yarn, weave in ends. [12 dc on each side, 6 ch-2 sps]

Subsequent full motifs (make 64 in total)

Joining order

Join from top to bottom, and from left to right. Start with the first full motif in the bottom left corner, then work your way across the bottom row.

Continue upwards and after working your final full motif, join all half motifs. Finally, fill up the gaps on either side with the small motifs.

Full Motifs

Make sure to start with the colour that needs to be joined to the other motif(s).

Rounds 1-5 Repeat Rounds 1-5 for First Motif.

Depending on the order in which you join motifs, you can have one or multiple sides to join to other motifs or even non-joining sides after you’ve joined a few sides.

If you follow the recommended order, for most motifs you only have to join bottom halves (max 3 sides) of your hexagons to opposite motifs and finish your round right after joining the third side. The only exception to this are hexagon 3, 5 and 7. Instructions for these motifs are written out below.

Joining Round 6 (RS) (You’ll be starting this round in the colour you’re not joining) 1ss in ch-sp, beg-ss ch3, *1dc in each st to end of side, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in ch-sp; rep from * another time, 1dc in each st to end of side, 1dc in ch-sp, change to other Colour, **1ss in ch-sp of opposite motif, 1dc in ch-sp of original motif, pick up BL of opposite st, (1dc, pick up BL of opposite st) 10x, 1dc in ch-sp, 1ss in ch-sp of opposite motif; repeat from ** for each side that needs to be joined to an opposite motif, join with ss in loose ch of beg-ss ch3. Cut yarn. [12 dc on each side, 6 ch-2 sps]

Joining Round 6 (RS) for Motifs 3, 5 and 7 1ss in ch-sp, beg-ss ch3, 1dc in each st to end of side, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in ch-sp, 1dc in each st to end of side, ch1, 1ss in ch-sp of opposite motif, 1dc in ch-sp of original motif, pick up BL of opposite st, (1dc, pick up BL of opposite st) 10x, 1dc in ch-sp, 1ss in ch-sp of opposite motif, change to other Colour, ch1, 1dc in ch-sp, 1dc in each st to end of side, *(1dc, ch2, 1dc) in ch-sp, 1dc in each st to end of side; repeat from * another time, 1dc in ch-sp, ch1, join with ss in loose ch of beg-ss ch3. Cut yarn. [12 dc on each side, 6 ch-2 sps]

Half Motif (make 8)

After joining all the full motifs, fill up gaps on both short sides with half motifs in assigned colours. Half motifs are joined on three short sides to opposite motifs.

With Colour, make a magic ring.

Round 1 (WS) Ch4 (counts as first dc and ch), (2dc, ch2) 2 times, 2dc, ch1, 1dc, turn. [8 dc, 2 ch-2 sps, 2 ch-1 sps]

You don’t crochet the full ring and then close it. You only crochet halfway and then turn.

Round 2 (RS) Ch4 (counts as first dc and ch), 1dc in ch-sp, *1dc in each st to end, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in ch-sp; repeat from * another time, 1dc in each st to end, ch1, 1dc in ch-sp, turn. [14 dc, 2 ch-2 sps, 2 ch-1 sps]

Rounds 3-5 Repeat Round 2 [32 dc, 2 ch-2 sps, 2 ch-1 sps]

Joining Round 6 (RS) Ch3, ss to opposite motifs ch-sp, *1dc in ch-sp, pick up BL of opposite st, (1dc, pick up BL of opposite st) 10x, 1dc in ch-sp, 1ss in ch-sp first opposite motif, 1ss in ch-sp of second opposite motif; repeat from * another 2 times omitting the last ss on the last rep, 1dc in ch-sp. Cut yarn. [38 dc, 6 ss]

When you’re joining the half motifs on the bottom right side and top left side, you won’t have a second adjacent motif to join to, as that is where you’ll later join the Small and Corner motifs. Instead of ss in those ch-sps, make a ch.

Small Motif (make 15)

You’ll fill up the gaps on the side with smaller motifs. Depending on whether you’re crochet small motifs for the left or right long side, you need to start with the top colour or bottom colour of two colours. Check the schematic to see which colour to start with.

With Colour 1, make a magic ring.

Row 1 (RS) Ch5 (counts as first tr and ch), (1tr, 3dc, change to other Colour, ch1, 3dc, 1tr, ch1, 1tr) in ring, turn. Pull magic loop tight. [4 tr, 2 ch-1 sps, 6 dc and 1 ch-2 sp]

Row 2 (WS) Ch5 (counts as first tr and ch), 2tr in ch-1 sp, 2tr, 2dc, (2hdc, change to other Colour, ch1, 2hdc) in ch-2 sp, 2dc, 2tr, 2tr in ch-1 sp, ch1, 1tr in fourth ch of first five ch, turn. [10 tr, 4 dc, 4 hdc, 2 ch-1 sps and 1 ch-2 sp]

You’ll be joining your Small Motif to the Full Motifs in this row with the same method as for the Full and Half Motifs.

Joining Row 3 (RS) Ch4 (counts as first tr), 1ss in ch-sp of adjacent motif, (1tr in ch-sp on original motif, pick up BL of opposite st) 2x, 1tr in next st, pick up BL of opposite st, (1dc, pick up BL of opposite st) 7x, (1dc, pick up BL of opposite st) 2x in ch-sp, 1ss in next ch-sp, change to other Colour, 1ss in next ch-sp, (1dc, pick up BL of opposite st) 2x in ch-sp, (1dc, pick up BL of opposite st) 7x, 1tr, pick up BL of opposite st, (1tr in ch-sp, pick up BL of opposite st) 2x, 1ss in next ch-sp, 1tr in fourth ch of first five ch. Cut yarn. [8 tr, 2 ch-1 sps, 18 dc, 1 ch-2/ss sp]

Top corner motif (make 1)

This motif is number 77 in the joining order schematic. There’s no colour change in this motif.

With Colour, make a magic ring.

Row 1 (RS) Ch4 (counts as first dc and ch), 3dc, 1tr, ch1, 1tr in magic ring, turn. [4 dc, 2 tr, 2 ch-1 sps]

Row 2 (WS) Ch5 (counts as first tr and ch), 2tr in ch-1 sp, 2tr, 2dc, 2hdc in ch-1 sp, ch1, 1hdc in third of four ch, turn. [5 tr, 2 dc, 3 htr, 2 ch-1 sps]

Row 3 (RS) Ch3 (counts as first dc), 1ss in ch-sp of adjacent motif, (1dc in ch-1 sp, pick up BL of opposite st) 2x, (1dc, pick up BL of opposite st) 7x, 1tr, pick up BL of opposite st, (1tr in ch-1 sp, pick up BL of opposite st) 2x, 1ss in opposite ch-sp, 1tr in fourth of five ch. Cut yarn. [10 dc, 4 tr, 2 ch-1 sps]

Bottom corner motif (make 1)

This motif is number 85 in the joining order schematic. There’s no colour change in this motif.

With Colour, make a magic ring.

Row 1 (RS) Ch5 (counts as first tr and ch), 1tr, 3dc, ch1, 1dc in magic ring, turn. [4 dc, 2 tr, 2 ch-1 sps]

Row 2 (WS) Ch3 (counts as first hdc and ch), 2hdc in ch-1 sp, 2dc, 2tr, 2tr in ch-1 sp, ch1, 1tr in fourth of five ch, turn. [3 hdc, 2 dc, 5 tr, 2 ch-1 sps]

Row 3 (RS) Ch4 (counts as first tr), 1ss in ch-sp of adjacent motif, (1tr in ch-1 sp, pick up BL of opposite st) 2x, 1tr, pick up BL of opposite st, (1dc, pick up BL of opposite st) 7x, (1dc in ch-1 sp, pick up BL of opposite st) 2x, 1ss in ch-sp of adjacent motif, 1dc in second ch of three ch. Cut yarn. [10 dc, 4 tr, 2 ch-1 sps]

Weave in all ends. You can use the tail ends of the small motifs to sew the corners of the small motifs to each other over the chain space of the full motifs. This creates a more even edge.

Block to size.

Adjusting size

Adjusting the size of this blanket is easy, simply add more columns and rows to the pattern. I recommend doing this in multiples of two (i.e. adding two columns or rows, or four, or six etc) so the pattern instructions for the colours doesn’t change. Every two rows add 25cm (9.8in) in height and every two columns add 20cm (7.8in) in width.

If you want to keep the same colour flow in a differently sized blanket, simply continue the colour pattern as instructed. Divide each hexagon in half, and use the colours in alphabetical sequence over and over again from left to right and for the next row from right to left. It's best to draw a new layout out beforehand to avoid making any sequential mistakes.

Diagram