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Rainbow Sampler Blanket (Part 5)

03.Jun.20 / Kirsten Ballering
The pattern for the Rainbow Sampler Blanket (Part 5) is also available as a print-friendly, styled and advertisement free PDF in the Haak maar Raak shop.

Materials

You can find all information about yarns and hook sizes in the pattern of week 1.

Shop the yarn!

You can find Scheepjes Colour Crafter via your local Scheepjes retailer or order online in these webshops:

Notes

  • You can find general information and the patterns for the previous weeks for this CAL here.
  • Yarn amounts used in Part 5:
    • Colour A: 24g
    • Colour L: 20g
    • Colour T: 20g
    • Colour U: 45g
    • Colour V: 18g
    • Colour W: 14g

Abbreviations

  • ch: chain
  • ch-space: chain space: the space below the chain of the previous row. The same goes for ch-2 space, ch-3 space etc
  • dc: double crochet
  • dc3tog: double crochet 3 stitches together to decrease the stitch count by 2: (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through first two loops on hook) once in each of three stitches, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
  • dc7tog: double crochet 7 stitches together to decrease the stitch count by 6: (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through first two loops on hook) once in each of seven stitches, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
  • hdc: half double crochet
  • RS: Right side
  • sc: single crochet
  • ss: slip stitch
  • st(s): stitch(es)
  • WS: wrong side

Formats

  • *….; rep from * once/twice/3x Crochet the instructions after * and then repeat that section a further number of times as indicated.
  • (…) once/twice/3x Crochet the instructions between brackets the total number of times indicated.
  • […] Indicates the amount of stitches at the end of a row or round.
  • (…) in same st/sp Indicates that all instructions between brackets are worked in the same stitch or space.

Techniques

Catherine Wheel

Stitch repeat in blanket: Multiples of 6+1 stitch.

The Catherine Wheel is one of the more complicated stitches in the blanket. Luckily it’s easy to memorize once you understand the different steps. A wheel consists of two rows. In the first row, you crochet the bottom half and in the second row the top half of the wheel. Read this tutorial together with the written pattern for the stitch repeats. I only crocheted a small part of the total repeats for the tutorial.

Join your yarn with a ss in the first stitch and work a sc in the same stitch (photo 1). Skip two stitches, crochet three dc, a ch and three dc in the next stitch. Skip two stitches and crochet a sc in the next stitch (photo 2). Repeat this until the end of the row, ending with a sc in the final stitch (photo 3). Cut yarn and turn your blanket.

Join your new colour with a ss in the first stitch (the final sc of the previous row). Crochet three chains (count as first dc) (photo 4). In this row, you will be crocheting stitches together to create that bottom half. Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over again and pull through two loops. You have now almost finished a dc. Repeat this for the next two stitches, so you got four loops on your hook (photo 5). Yarn over again and pull through all loops on hook. You have now crocheted three dc’s together (photo 6).

Next, crochet seven ch (photo 7). To create the first full bottom half, you will crochet seven dc’s together. Work them in the stitches between the chain spaces of the first and second clusters of the previous round (being the three dc’s on the first cluster, the sc in the middle and three dc’s on the next cluster). Crochet the seven dc’s together as you did with the three dc’s. You will have eight loops on your hook before the final yarn over (photo 8, 9), then yarn over again and pull through all loops on hook. Repeat crocheting seven ch and seven dc’s together until you’ve completed the last full bottom half (photo 10). Crochet the final seven ch, and work 3 dc’s together as you did at the beginning of your row (photo 11).

Work a final dc in the last stitch of the row (the sc) (photo 12). Don’t cut yarn, turn your blanket.

Crochet three ch, those count as dc (photo 13). You will find that this row looks a lot like the very first row of the Catherine Wheels. Work three dc’s in the ‘eye’ of the 3 dc’s you’ve crocheted together in the previous row (photo 14). Now crochet a sc over the seven ch of the last row, into the chain space below that stitch (photo 15). This causes you to ‘catch’ the chains as another spoke the wheel. In the next eye, crochet three dc, one ch and three dc. Crochet a sc in the chain space below the next sc. Continue like this until you’ve reached the half-wheel at the end of the row. Work three dc in the final eye, and one dc in the last stitch (photo 17). Cut yarn, turn your blanket.

Join your new colour with a ss in the first stitch. Crochet a sc in the same stitch (photo 18). In a Catherine Wheel blanket you would now be making the bottom half of the next set of wheels. But since we only have one set of Catherine Wheels, we’ll be making this our last row (and make some changes accordingly).

Crochet three chains, and then crochet seven dc together like you’ve done before (photo 19, 20). You usually would crochet seven ch at this point. However, we’re going to crochet three ch, then a sc in the chain space of your Catherine Wheel (photo 21) and then again three ch, so you get a total of seven stitches. We’re doing this because we want to secure our final row for the other rows in the blanket. Continue working seven dc’s together and then working three ch, one sc and three ch, ending with three ch and one sc in the final stitch (photo 22). Cut yarn and turn your blanket. This is how you make Catherine Wheels!

Crochet pattern

Catherine Wheel Section 1 (Rows 67-72)

The Catherine wheel is a fun stitch to learn. As the name suggests the pattern creates big wheels that you crochet over the course of two rows. The stitch might look complex at first glance, but as long as you tackle it step by step, you can do it!

Row 67 (WS) Join Colour T with a ss in first st, 1sc in same st, *skip 2 sts, (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in same st, skip 2 sts, 1sc in next st; repeat from * another 37 times, skip 2 sts, (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in same st, skip 2 sts, 1sc in last stitch, cut yarn, turn. [41 sc, 40 3dc-ch1-3dc clusters, 80 spaces where you skipped 2 sts]

Row 68 (RS) Join Colour L with a ss in first st, ch3 (counts as first dc), dc3tog, ch7, skip ch-1 space, *dc7tog, ch7, skip ch-1 space; repeat from * another 38 times, dc3tog, 1dc in final st, turn. [39 half Catherine wheels, 2 quarter wheels (one on each end), 2 dc, 40 ch-7]

Row 69 (WS) Ch3 (counts as first dc), 3dc in dc3tog (there’s an ‘eye’ in the centre of the wheel, that’s where you’ll be working your stitches), 1sc over the ch7 of your previous row into the ch-1 space of Row 67, *(3dc, ch1, 3dc) in next dc7tog, 1sc over the ch7 of your previous row into the next ch-1 space of Row 67; repeat from * another 38 times, 3dc in final dc3tog, 1dc in last dc (the ch3 with which you started Row 68), cut yarn, turn. [39 half Catherine wheels, 2 quarter Catherine wheels (one on each end), 2 dc, 40 sc]

Since we’re only going to work one row of Catherine wheels the next row will look like Row 68, but will not be exactly the same. If you would crochet 7 chains as the ‘top’ row of the Catherine wheel, you can imagine that all your next rows would have quite the gap. Instead, we’ll be securing the chain to the Catherine wheels. This way, you can continue with the rest of your blanket without big gaps. Basically, we’re mirroring Row 67.

Row 70 (RS) Join Colour T with a ss in first st, 1sc in same st, *ch3, dc7tog, ch3, 1sc in ch-1 space of Row 69; repeat from * another 38 times, ch3, dc7tog, ch3, 1sc in last dc (the ch3 with which you started Row 69). Cut yarn, turn. [41 sc, 40 dc7tog, 80 ch-3]

We’ll need to make sure we’re going back to 241 hdc in the next row. This means counting! Luckily, we can look to Row 67 for that. Each Catherine wheel took up 6 stitches (1sc, 2 skipped stitches, a Catherine wheel and then 2 skipped stitches again) for every repeat. So we’ll just need to make sure we’re working 6 stitches per Catherine wheel to get back to 240 plus the final stitch that we’ve used to fasten the last wheel.

Row 71 (WS) Join Colour A with a ss in first st, ch1, 1hdc in same st, *2hdc in ch-3 space, 1hdc in dc7tog, 2hdc in next ch-3 space, 1hdc in sc; repeat from * another 38 times, 2hdc in ch-3 space, 1hdc in dc7tog, 2hdc in ch-3 space, 1hdc last sc, ch1, turn. [241 hdc]

Row 72 (RS) 241hdc, cut yarn, turn. [241 hdc]

Stripes section 2 (Rows 73-86)

Just like the previous stripes section, this will be a nice part for TV crochet. Just 241 hdc’s, every row!

Row 73 (WS) Join Colour U with a ss in first st, ch1, 1hdc in same st, 240hdc, ch1, turn. [241 hdc]

Row 74 (RS) 241hdc, ch1, turn. [241 hdc]

Row 75 (WS) 241hdc, cut yarn, turn. [241 hdc]

Row 76 (RS) Join Colour V with a ss in first st, ch1, 1hdc in same st, 240hdc, ch1, turn. [241 hdc]

Row 77 (WS) 241hdc, cut yarn, turn. [241 hdc]

Row 78 (RS) Join Colour U with a ss in first st, ch1, 1hdc in same st, 240hdc, cut yarn, turn. [241 hdc]

Row 79 (WS) Join Colour W with a ss in first st, ch1, 1hdc in same st, 240hdc, ch1, turn. [241 hdc]

Row 80 (RS) 241hdc, cut yarn, turn. [241 hdc]

Row 81 (WS) Join Colour V with a ss in first st, ch1, 1hdc in same st, 240hdc, cut yarn, turn. [241 hdc]

Row 82 (RS) Join Colour U with a ss in first st, ch1, 1hdc in same st, 240hdc, ch1, turn. [241 hdc]

Row 83 (WS) 241hdc, ch1, turn. [241 hdc]

Row 84 (RS) 241hdc, cut yarn, turn. [241 hdc]

Row 85 (WS) Join Colour A with a ss in first st, ch1, 1hdc in same st, 240hdc, ch1, turn. [241 hdc]

Row 86 (RS) 241hdc, cut yarn, turn. [241 hdc]

Continue with part 6 of the Rainbow Sampler pattern.

Diagram

Crochet Diagram Week 5

Diagram 1

Key Week 5

Diagram 2

Yarn colours

Diagram 3

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Replies

Ceci
Fantastic!! Thanks so much!!! June 03, 2020 14:33 - Reply
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