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Baby Rainbow Sampler Blanket 2 (Part 11)

KirstenKirsten7 August 2026
Finished size
110 x 85 cm(43 x 33½ in)
Crochet hook
3.5mm (US size E/4) for both versions
Yarn
Scheepjes Organicon, Catona
Skill level
Beginner
Gauge/tension

The Baby Rainbow Sampler Blanket 2 is a small version of the Big Rainbow Sampler Blanket 2. It features all the different stitches used in the original blanket, just smaller. It's a great project for an ambitious beginner who wants to learn more crochet stitches and perfect for gifting to your loved ones. This blanket is a journey in itself!

You can find the other pattern parts here:

Baby Sampler2 1

Materials and preparation

The pattern is available in two colourways: A Organicon rainbow colourway, and a Catona gradient colourway. Instructions for both colourways are included in the pattern. Be aware that they do use different amounts of each colour for each version.

Yarn

Scheepjes Organicon100% Soft Organic Cotton, 50g/170m
LabelColour nameCodeAmount
Colour AOxygen2194 balls
Colour BLucky Heather2591 ball
Colour CPerfect Plum2571 ball
Colour DDahlia2461 ball
Colour ESwaying Tulip2471 ball
Colour FPink Elephant2481 ball
Colour GAmaranth2451 ball
Colour HRed Rose2441 ball
Colour IDeep Tangerine2241 ball
Colour JHappy Sunflower2381 ball
Colour KBaby Chick2391 ball
Colour LSapling2131 ball
Colour MOlive2281 ball
Colour NBright Ocean2151 ball
Colour OHappy Thoughts2641 ball
Colour PSleepy Cyan2681 ball
Colour QTicklish Turquoise2671 ball
Colour RBluebell2551 ball

Shop the yarn!

Do you want to make this blanket? You can find the yarn for this blanket in several stores, such as:

Crochet hook

3.5mm (US size E/4) for both versions

Measurements

Organicon blanket measures 110 x 85 cm (43 x 33½ in) after blocking. Catona blanket measures 122 x 94 cm (48 x 37 in)

Gauge/tension

Gauge is not critical for this pattern. If you want precise gauge instructions, check out Part 1

Abbreviations (US terms)

begin-bobble
ch2, (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through two loops on hook) 5x in the same stitch or space, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
bobble
(yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through two loops on hook) 6x in the same stitch, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
ch
chain(s)
dc
double crochet
hdc
half double crochet
popcorn
6dc in same stitch, remove hook from loop, insert hook from front to back through first dc, pick up loop, pull through dc to close popcorn
RS
right side
ss
slip stitch
s(ts)
stitch(es)
WS
wrong side

Repeat formats

  • *….; rep from * once/twice/3xCrochet the instructions after * and then repeat that section a further number of times as indicated.
  • (…) once/twice/3xCrochet the instructions between brackets the total number of times indicated.
  • […]Indicates the amount of stitches at the end of a row or round.
  • (…) in same st/spIndicates that all instructions between brackets are worked in the same stitch or space.

Notes

  • The pattern for this blanket is long. To keep track of where you are, I’ve divided it into different parts. Each part introduces a new section with Techniques and also contains a crochet diagram.
  • In most rows you’ll make a ch1 before turning your blanket. This is a turning chain and does not count as a stitch. If you find a ch1 is too small, you can also make a ch2. This depends on how tight you crochet.

Colour layout

Part 11 Weekly overview

Organicon Rainbow Part 11
Organicon Rainbow Part 11
Catona Gradient Part 11
Catona Gradient Part 11

Techniques

The techniques are placed on a separate page. You can find them here:

Crochet pattern

Popcorn section 3 (Rows 132-136)

The final section is made with popcorns. Enjoy!

Popcorn rows
Row 132 (WS)Join Colour Q with a ss in first stitch, ch1, 1hdc in same st, 144hdc, ch1, turn.[145 hdc]
Row 133 (RS)8hdc, *popcorn, 7hdc; repeat from * another 15 times, popcorn, 8hdc, ch1, turn.[17 popcorn, 128 hdc]
Row 134 (WS)145hdc, cut yarn, turn.[145 hdc]
Back to solid rows
Row 135 (RS)Join Colour A with a ss in first st, ch1, 1hdc in same st, 144hdc, ch1, turn.[145 hdc]
Row 136 (WS)145hdc, cut yarn, turn.[145 hdc]

Tulip stitch section 3 Rows 137-140

We’ll finish this blanket's body with a final row of Tulip stitches. Maybe you have ideas on how to make this row truly your own. For example, with your favourite colours, or maybe with different colours in the same row, or maybe something else altogether?

Forming the tulip leaves
Row 137 (RS)Join Colour R with a ss in the first stitch, ch4, 1dc in same st as the first ch (so the first stitch), skip next 2 stitches, *(1dc, ch2, 1dc) in same stitch, skip next 2 stitches; repeat from * another 46 times, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last stitch, cut yarn, turn.[47 full V’s and 2 smaller V’s on both ends]

As you can see, this first row of the Tulip stitch resembles the V stitch. You can see the leaves of each tulip forming. Next, we will make bobble stitches to form the tulip’s flower. Bobbles are yet another way of creating volume.

Adding the bobble flowers
Row 138 (WS)Join Colour B (Colour P for Catona version!) with a ss in the first V-space. Begin-bobble, *ch2, skip the dc’s, bobble in next V-space; repeat from * another 47 times, cut yarn, turn.[1 beg-bobble, 48 bobbles]
Row 139 (RS)Join Colour A with a ss in the top of the first bobble. Ch1, 1hdc in same stitch, 2hdc in the next ch-2 space, *1hdc in top of bobble, 2hdc in the next ch-2 space; repeat from * another 46 times, 1hdc in the final bobble, ch1, turn.[145 hdc]

The white row will most likely pull a bit inward here, especially on top of the first and last bobble stitch. But that’s okay - we’ll sort it out with the edging.

Finishing the body
Row 140 (WS)145hdc, cut yarn.[145 hdc]

Weave in all your ends, if you haven’t done that already.

Preparing for the edge

Checking the shape

If you have the space and opportunity, I would recommend wet- or sprayblocking your blanket at this point. It helps to see where your blanket pulls inwards and possibly flares so you can counter this in your first couple of edging rows. If you don’t have the space, simply lay your blanket flat and have a look at whether and where it flares or pulls—write the section(s) down so you can refer to them when making the edging.

Blocking

After finishing Row 140, my Organicon blanket measured approximately 100 x 75cm (39 x 29½in). I blocked the blanket to around 115 x 85cm (45 x 33½in), but it’s more important for you to make it as rectangular as possible than to approximate my measurements (those might differ for everybody).

You can find a very extensive blocking tutorial here. Stretch the blanket to the point where you can pin it in a rectangular shape and where there are no ‘peaks’ forming where your pins are. If so, pin again and stretch the blanket a little less. Next, use a spray bottle with lukewarm water (and, optionally, some Eucalan) to make your blanket wet. Let it air dry, and then take out the pins.

The ideal scenario is that after you block your blanket, you remove the pins and leave it on the ground for another day so you can see the final shape once all external tension (from the pins) is removed. This gives you the best approximation of the final size of your blanket. After blocking, my Organicon blanket stretched back to approximately 110 x 80cm (43 x 31½in). The Catona one was slightly bigger.

Crochet pattern Baby Sampler 2

Diagrams

Baby Sampler 2 Part 11
Baby Sampler 2 Part 11
Key (US terms)
Key (US terms)

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Kirsten
KirstenCrochet designer at Haak Maar Raak