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Baby Rainbow Sampler Blanket 2 (Part 12)

KirstenKirsten7 August 2026
Finished size
110 x 85 cm(43 x 33½ in)
Crochet hook
3.5mm (US size E/4) for both versions
Yarn
Scheepjes Organicon, Catona
Skill level
Beginner
Gauge/tension

The Baby Rainbow Sampler Blanket 2 is a small version of the Big Rainbow Sampler Blanket 2. It features all the different stitches used in the original blanket, just smaller. It's a great project for an ambitious beginner who wants to learn more crochet stitches and perfect for gifting to your loved ones. This blanket is a journey in itself!

You can find the other pattern parts here:

Baby Sampler2 1

Materials and preparation

The pattern is available in two colourways: A Organicon rainbow colourway, and a Catona gradient colourway. Instructions for both colourways are included in the pattern. Be aware that they do use different amounts of each colour for each version,

Yarn

Scheepjes Organicon100% Soft Organic Cotton, 50g/170m
LabelColour nameCodeAmount
Colour AOxygen2194 balls
Colour BLucky Heather2591 ball
Colour CPerfect Plum2571 ball
Colour DDahlia2461 ball
Colour ESwaying Tulip2471 ball
Colour FPink Elephant2481 ball
Colour GAmaranth2451 ball
Colour HRed Rose2441 ball
Colour IDeep Tangerine2241 ball
Colour JHappy Sunflower2381 ball
Colour KBaby Chick2391 ball
Colour LSapling2131 ball
Colour MOlive2281 ball
Colour NBright Ocean2151 ball
Colour OHappy Thoughts2641 ball
Colour PSleepy Cyan2681 ball
Colour QTicklish Turquoise2671 ball
Colour RBluebell2551 ball

Shop the yarn!

Do you want to make this blanket? You can find the yarn for this blanket in several stores, such as:

Crochet hook

3.5mm (US size E/4) for both versions

Measurements

Organicon blanket measures 110 x 85 cm (43 x 33½ in) after blocking. Catona blanket measures 122 x 94 cm (48 x 37 in)

Gauge/tension

Gauge is not critical for this pattern. If you want precise gauge instructions, check out Part 1

Abbreviations (US terms)

ch
chain(s)
hdc
half double crochet
RS
right side
ss
slip stitch
s(ts)
stitch(es)
WS
wrong side

Repeat formats

  • *….; rep from * once/twice/3xCrochet the instructions after * and then repeat that section a further number of times as indicated.
  • (…) once/twice/3xCrochet the instructions between brackets the total number of times indicated.
  • […]Indicates the amount of stitches at the end of a row or round.
  • (…) in same st/spIndicates that all instructions between brackets are worked in the same stitch or space.

Notes

  • The pattern for this blanket is long. To keep track of where you are, I’ve divided it into different parts. Each part introduces a new section with Techniques and also contains a crochet diagram.
  • In most rows you’ll make a ch1 before turning your blanket. This is a turning chain and does not count as a stitch. If you find a ch1 is too small, you can also make a ch2. This depends on how tight you crochet.

Colour layout

Part 12 Weekly overview

Organicon Rainbow Part 12
Organicon Rainbow Part 12
Catona Gradient Part 12
Catona Gradient Part 12

Crochet pattern

Border

The instructions for the border contain many tips and explanations because the border is usually the part of a blanket where tension issues reveal themselves. Luckily, it’s also the most forgiving when fudging. So, I’m giving you lots of tips to fudge the border professionally. Read them before starting, and see which ones are useful to you!

Countering flaring or pulling sections

When we’re making the edging, if you encounter a section that you wrote down, do one of two things:

  1. when it flares outwards, crochet a sc or ss instead of a hdc.
  2. When it pulls inwards, crochet a dc or a tr instead of a hdc.

The height difference in these stitches helps to fill any gaps or bumps. The aim is to have a smooth, straight border. If one row doesn’t fix it, do the same in the next row(s) until the border is more or less straight.

Filling in the edges of the blanket

Border foundations for long sides

I like a border that’s equally wide on all sides, and since the top and bottom rows already have two rows of white hdc’s each, I want to add two rows of hdc on both long sides before going all the way around the blanket.

A note before we start: The stitch count on the long sides is less important than to have a flat border. I think you better have too few than too many stitches on your border. If you have too few stitches, the remaining stitches tend to stretch out to ‘just enough to lay flat’, but if you have too many stitches, the border will definitely ruffle. To check, lay the section(s) flat and smooth with your hands. It’s okay if there’s a bit of tension in the border, as long as your blanket doesn’t curl up on itself.

The perfect amount of stitches for the border depends on how long your blanket ends up after blocking, but a great rule of thumb is to crochet 1 hdc in the side of each sc or hdc row, and 2 hdc’s in the side of each dc row.

Foundation right long side
Row 1 (RS)Start at the bottom right side with RS facing you. Join Colour A with a ss in the starting chain, ch1, 1hdc in same stitch, 1hdc in side of next row. Work your way up alongside the blanket, following the rule of thumb and tips above. I ended up with 175 hdc on the long side. Ch1, turn.
Row 2 (WS)1hdc in every stitch to end of row, ch1, turn.
Foundation left long side
Row 1 (RS)Start at the top left side with RS facing you. Join Colour A with a ss in the side of the last hdc row, ch1, 1hdc in side of row, 1hdc in side of next row. From here on, work your way down the blanket. Try to make the same amount of stitches as you have on the other long side. Ch1, turn.
Row 2 (WS)1hdc in every stitch to other side, ch1, turn.

I ended up with 175 hdc on both long sides for both blanket versions.

Fudging the numbers on the sides

If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides, you can always add a little ‘2hdc in one stitch or ‘hdc2tog’ here and there. It’s not strictly necessary to have an equal number of stitches on both sides, but it just works more easily in the final round of the edging. This is also the remedy if your blanket has too many or too few stitches in the first round and you want to tweak a bit without frogging the rows.

Border rounds

We will work around the blanket for the final couple of rounds.

Working around the blanket
Round 1 (RS)Join Colour A with a ss in the top-right corner. Ch1, (1hdc, ch2, 1hdc) in corner stitch, 1hdc in next row-end, 1hdc in each st to end of side, 1hdc in next row-end, (1hdc, ch2, 1hdc) in side of corner-stitch, rotate blanket 90 degrees. 1hdc in each st along long side, (1hdc, ch2, 1hdc) in side of corner-stitch, rotate blanket 90 degrees. 1hdc in next row-end, 1hdc in each st to end of side, 1hdc in next row-end, (1hdc, ch2, 1hdc) in side of corner-stitch, rotate blanket 90 degrees. 1hdc in each st along long side, join with ss in first stitch, don’t turn.[145 hdc on short sides, 177 hdc on long sides]

Again, stitch counts on the long sides are not as important as that it lays flat.

Building up the border
Round 2 (RS)Ch1, *1hdc in each st to end of side, (2hdc, ch2, 1hdc) in corner-space; repeat from * another 3 times, 1hdc in each st to beginning, join with ss in first stitch, turn.[148 hdc on short sides, 180 hdc on long sides]

You’re making 2hdc on one side of the corner and 1hdc on the other side. The reason for this is that when you work in rounds, the slanting of stitches causes the corners to become slightly crooked. By working 2 hdc, we’re offsetting this and making perfectly square corners. Trust me, it works!

Repeat Round 2 another 3 times, giving you five border rounds in total. If you stick to the stitch counts given in Round 2, you end up with a stitch count of 157 hdc on the short sides and 189 hdc on the long sides. Cut yarn, and weave in all your ends.

You can now block your blanket again following the instructions in Part 11. And don’t forget to take a moment to pat yourself on the back—you made it to the end of this big project!

Edge instructions for the Baby Rainbow Sampler Blanket 2

Diagrams

Baby Sampler 2 Part 12
Baby Sampler 2 Part 12
Key (US terms)
Key (US terms)

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Kirsten
KirstenCrochet designer at Haak Maar Raak