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Rainbow Sampler Blanket 2 (Part 5)

25.Oct.23 / Kirsten Ballering

Are you ready to continue your Sampler adventure? The Rainbow Sampler Blanket 2 features more stitches, vibrant colours, and a sprinkle of yarn magic.

Designed for adventurous beginners who want to take their crochet skills to the next level, this blanket teaches you everything you need to know about more advanced stitch patterns.

Other pattern parts can be found here:

The pattern for the Rainbow Sampler Blanket 2 (Part 5) is also available as a styled and advertisement- free PDF in the Haak Maar Raak shop.

Materials and preparation

Yarn

Original Colours

Scheepjes Colour Crafter (100% Premium Acrylic, 100g/300m)
  • Colour A: 1001 Weert x 6 balls
  • Colour B: 1132 Leek x 1 ball
  • Colour C: 1083 Tilburg x 1 ball
  • Colour D: 1123 Roermond x 1 ball
  • Colour E: 2004 Brussel x 1 ball
  • Colour F: 1277 Amstelveen x 1 ball
  • Colour G: 1432 Heerlen x 1 ball
  • Colour H: 1130 Sittard x 1 ball
  • Colour I: 1241 Den Bosch x 1 ball
  • Colour J: 1821 Terneuzen x 1 ball
  • Colour K: 1725 Ameland x 1 ball
  • Colour L: 1422 Eelde x 1 ball
  • Colour M: 2009 Kortrijk x 1 ball
  • Colour N: 2006 Luik x 1 ball
  • Colour O: 1068 Den Helder x 1 ball
  • Colour P: 1034 Urk x 1 ball
  • Colour Q: 2015 Bastogne x 1 ball
  • Colour R: 1114 Eindhoven x 1 ball
  • Colour S: 1263 Leerdam x 1 ball

Shop the yarn!

If you're looking for Colour Crafter, you can find it at your local retailer or online through one of these links:

Crochet hook

5.0mm (US size H/8).

Measurements

The blanket measures 170 x 210cm (67 x 82 ½in) after blocking.

Gauge/tension

See pattern of part 1 for gauge information.

Notes

  • Colours used for this week are:
    • Colour A: 42g
    • Colour C: 19g
    • Colour D: 19g
    • Colour F: 16g
    • Colour G: 27g
  • In most rows, you’ll make a ch1 before turning your blanket. This is a turning chain and does not count as a stitch. If you find a ch1 is too small, you can also make a ch2. This depends on how tight you crochet.

Abbreviations (US terms)

  • begin-bobble: ch2, (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through two loops on hook) 5x in the same stitch or space, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
  • begin-puff stitch: ch1, (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop) 3x in the same stitch, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
  • BLO: back loop only
  • bobble: (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through two loops on hook) 6x in the same stitch, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
  • ch: chain(s)
  • dc: double crochet
  • dc2tog: double crochet 2 stitches together to decrease the stitch count by 1: (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through first two loops on hook) once in each of two stitches, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
  • dc3tog: double crochet 3 stitches together to decrease the stitch count by 2: (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through first two loops on hook) once in each of three stitches, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
  • dc7tog: double crochet 7 stitches together to decrease the stitch count by 6: (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through first two loops on hook) once in each of seven stitches, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
  • FL: front loop
  • FPdc: front post double crochet: Yarn over, insert your hook around the post of the stitch indicated in the pattern, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through first two loops on hook, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
  • hdc: half double crochet
  • hdc2tog: half double crochet 2 stitches together to decrease the stitch count by 1: (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop) in each of two stitches, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
  • popcorn: 6dc in same stitch, remove hook from loop, insert hook from front to back through first dc, pick up loop, pull through dc to close popcorn
  • puff stitch: (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop) 4x in the same stitch, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
  • RS: right side
  • sc: single crochet
  • ss: slip stitch
  • s(ts): stitch(es)
  • tr: treble crochet
  • wrapped st: wrapped stitch: (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop to working height) 2x in same space, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
  • WS: wrong side

Repeat formats

  • *….; rep from * once/twice/3x Crochet the instructions after * and then repeat that section a further number of times as indicated.
  • *…; rep to end Crochet the instructions after * and then repeat that section to the end of the row or round.
  • (…) once/twice/3x Crochet the instructions between brackets the total number of times indicated.
  • […] Indicates the amount of stitches at the end of a row or round.
  • (…) in same st/sp Indicates that all instructions between brackets are worked in the same stitch or space.

Colour layout

Part 5 Rainbow Sampler Blanket 2
Part 5 Rainbow Sampler Blanket 2

Techniques

To keep the pattern feasible, I placed the stitch tutorials on separate pages:

 

stay in the loop

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Crochet pattern

X-stitch section 1

This stitch is one of my favourites. The X’es that are worked over your work are made with trebles that cross each other, in skipped stitches that you prepared a few rows back. It’s a great stitch to play around with, in terms of colours but also in contrast: for example, how would this stitch look like when you crochet the X’es with a different type of yarn? The possibilities are numerous!

Row 76 (WS) Join Colour G with a ss in first stitch, ch1, 1sc in same st, 216sc, ch1, turn. [217 sc]

Row 77 (RS) 4sc, *ch1, skip next stitch, 3sc, ch1, skip next stitch, 7sc; repeat from * another 16 times, ch1, skip next stitch, 3sc, ch1, skip next stitch, 4sc, cut yarn, turn. [36 ch-spaces, 181 sc, 217 sts in total]

Row 78 (WS) Join Colour F with a ss in first stitch, ch3 (counts as first dc), 216dc (so 1 dc in each sc and chain), cut yarn, turn. [217 dc]

The next row we’re going to create the crosses by making trebles in the front loops of the stitches below the chains that we’ve crocheted in Row 77. We do this by first crocheting a treble in the stitch below the chain 2 stitches ahead (so the treble forms the first diagonal leg of the cross), making 3sc in between and then working another treble in the stitch below the chain 2 stitches back, forming the second diagonal leg of the cross. Don’t forget to skip the stitch on the current row behind the treble. Otherwise, we’d mess up our stitch count.

Row 79 (RS) Join Colour G with a ss in first stitch, ch1, 1sc in same st, 3sc, *1tr in FL of st below ch in Row 77 2 stitches ahead, skip next stitch on current row, 3sc, 1tr in FL of st below ch in Row 77 2 stitches back, skip next stitch on current row, 7sc; repeat from * another 16 times, 1tr in FL of st below ch in Row 77 2 stitches ahead, skip next stitch on current row, 3sc, 1tr in FL of st below ch in Row 77 2 stitches back, skip next stitch on current row, 4sc, ch1, turn. [18 tr-crosses, 217 sts in total]

Row 80 (WS) 217sc, ch1, turn. [217 sc]

Row 81 (RS) 10sc, *ch1, skip next stitch, 3sc, ch1, skip next stitch, 7sc; repeat from * another 15 times, ch1, skip next stitch, 3sc, ch1, skip next stitch, 10sc, cut yarn, turn. [34 ch-spaces, 183 sc, 217 sts in total]

Row 82 (WS) Join Colour F with a ss in first stitch, repeat Row 78. [217 dc]

Row 83 (RS) Join Colour G with a ss in first stitch, ch1, 1sc in same st, 9sc, *1tr in FL of st below ch in Row 81 2 stitches ahead, skip next stitch on current row, 3sc, 1tr in FL of st below ch in Row 81 2 stitches back, skip next stitch on current row, 7sc; repeat from * another 15 times, 1tr in FL of st below ch in Row 81 2 stitches ahead, skip next stitch on current row, 3sc, 1tr in FL of st below ch in Row 81 2 stitches back, skip next stitch on current row, 10sc, ch1, turn. [17 tr-crosses, 217 sts in total]

Row 84 (WS) 217sc, cut yarn, turn. [217 sc]

Row 85 (RS) Join Colour A with a ss in first stitch, ch1, 1hdc in same st, 216hdc, cut yarn, turn. [217 hdc]

Popcorn section 1

Next to puff stitches, popcorns are another way to create bobbles in your blanket. They’re fundamentally different from pop stitches as they are a group of completed double crochets, held together by a slip stitch. The popcorn bobbles are sturdier compared to puff stitches, and also bigger. You can play around with volume by crocheting more or less double crochets in a popcorn. For max volume, we stick to 6!

Row 86 (WS) Join Colour C with a ss in first stitch, ch1, 1hdc in same st, 216hdc, ch1, turn. [217 hdc]

Row 87 (RS) 8hdc, *popcorn, 7hdc; repeat from * another 23 times, popcorn, 8hdc, ch1, turn. [25 popcorn, 192 hdc]

Row 88 (WS) 217hdc, cut yarn, turn. [217 hdc]

Row 89 (RS) Join Colour A with a ss in first stitch, ch1, 1hdc in same st, 216hdc, cut yarn, turn. [217 hdc]

Row 90 (WS) Join Colour D with a ss in first stitch, ch1, 1hdc in same st, 216hdc, ch1, turn. [217 hdc]

Row 91 (RS) 12hdc, *popcorn, 7hdc; repeat from * another 22 times, popcorn, 12hdc, ch1, turn. [24 popcorn, 192 hdc]

Because we crochet more hdc before starting our popcorn repeat, the popcorns are offset compared to the previous row.

Row 92 (WS) 217hdc, cut yarn, turn. [217 hdc]

Row 93 (RS) Join Colour A with a ss in first stitch, ch1, 1hdc in same st, 216hdc, ch1, turn. [217 hdc]

Row 94 (WS) 217hdc, cut yarn, turn. [217 hdc]

Diagram

Crochet chart Part 5

Diagram 1

Key (US terms)

Diagram 2

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