Rainbow Sampler Blanket 2 (Part 6)
02.Nov.23 / Kirsten BalleringAre you ready to continue your Sampler adventure? The Rainbow Sampler Blanket 2 features more stitches, vibrant colours, and a sprinkle of yarn magic.
Designed for adventurous beginners who want to take their crochet skills to the next level, this blanket teaches you everything you need to know about more advanced stitch patterns.
Other pattern parts can be found here:
Materials and preparation
Yarn
Original Colours
Scheepjes Colour Crafter (100% Premium Acrylic, 100g/300m)- Colour A: 1001 Weert x 6 balls
- Colour B: 1132 Leek x 1 ball
- Colour C: 1083 Tilburg x 1 ball
- Colour D: 1123 Roermond x 1 ball
- Colour E: 2004 Brussel x 1 ball
- Colour F: 1277 Amstelveen x 1 ball
- Colour G: 1432 Heerlen x 1 ball
- Colour H: 1130 Sittard x 1 ball
- Colour I: 1241 Den Bosch x 1 ball
- Colour J: 1821 Terneuzen x 1 ball
- Colour K: 1725 Ameland x 1 ball
- Colour L: 1422 Eelde x 1 ball
- Colour M: 2009 Kortrijk x 1 ball
- Colour N: 2006 Luik x 1 ball
- Colour O: 1068 Den Helder x 1 ball
- Colour P: 1034 Urk x 1 ball
- Colour Q: 2015 Bastogne x 1 ball
- Colour R: 1114 Eindhoven x 1 ball
- Colour S: 1263 Leerdam x 1 ball
Shop the yarn!
If you're looking for Colour Crafter, you can find it at your local retailer or online through one of these links:
Crochet hook
5.0mm (US size H/8).
Measurements
The blanket measures 170 x 210cm (67 x 82 ½in) after blocking.
Gauge/tension
See pattern of part 1 for gauge information.
Notes
- This week we use the following colours:
- Colour A: 26g
- Colour I: 8g
- Colour J: 5g
- Colour L: 5g
- Colour N: 8g
- Colour O: 10g
- Colour P: 5g
- Colour Q: 10g
- Colour R: 12g
- In most rows, you’ll make a ch1 before turning your blanket. This is a turning chain and does not count as a stitch. If you find a ch1 is too small, you can also make a ch2. This depends on how tight you crochet.
Abbreviations (US terms)
- begin-bobble: ch2, (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through two loops on hook) 5x in the same stitch or space, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
- begin-puff stitch: ch1, (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop) 3x in the same stitch, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
- BLO: back loop only
- bobble: (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through two loops on hook) 6x in the same stitch, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
- ch: chain(s)
- dc: double crochet
- dc2tog: double crochet 2 stitches together to decrease the stitch count by 1: (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through first two loops on hook) once in each of two stitches, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
- dc3tog: double crochet 3 stitches together to decrease the stitch count by 2: (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through first two loops on hook) once in each of three stitches, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
- dc7tog: double crochet 7 stitches together to decrease the stitch count by 6: (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through first two loops on hook) once in each of seven stitches, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
- FL: front loop
- FPdc: front post double crochet: Yarn over, insert your hook around the post of the stitch indicated in the pattern, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through first two loops on hook, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
- hdc: half double crochet
- hdc2tog: half double crochet 2 stitches together to decrease the stitch count by 1: (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop) in each of two stitches, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
- popcorn: 6dc in same stitch, remove hook from loop, insert hook from front to back through first dc, pick up loop, pull through dc to close popcorn
- puff stitch: (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop) 4x in the same stitch, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
- RS: right side
- sc: single crochet
- ss: slip stitch
- s(ts): stitch(es)
- tr: treble crochet
- wrapped st: wrapped stitch: (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop to working height) 2x in same space, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
- WS: wrong side
Repeat formats
- *….; rep from * once/twice/3x Crochet the instructions after * and then repeat that section a further number of times as indicated.
- *…; rep to end Crochet the instructions after * and then repeat that section to the end of the row or round.
- (…) once/twice/3x Crochet the instructions between brackets the total number of times indicated.
- […] Indicates the amount of stitches at the end of a row or round.
- (…) in same st/sp Indicates that all instructions between brackets are worked in the same stitch or space.
Colour layout
Techniques
To keep the pattern organised, I placed the stitch tutorials on separate pages:
Crochet pattern
Tulip stitch section 1
This floral addition is a combination of two separate stitches. You are combining a variant of the V-stitch with a bobble stitch to form a tulip shape. We’re working it in rows, but I can definitely see this stitch work in square motifs as well.
Row 95 (RS) Join Colour J with a ss in the first stitch, ch4, 1dc in same st as the first ch (so the first stitch), skip next 2 stitches, *(1dc, ch2, 1dc) in same stitch, skip next 2 stitches; repeat from * another 70 times, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last stitch, cut yarn, turn. [71 full V’s and 2 smaller V’s on both ends]
As you can see, this first row of the Tulip stitch is very much alike to the V stitch. You can see the leaves of each tulip forming. Next, we will make bobble stitches to form the tulip’s flower. Bobbles are yet another way of creating volume.
Row 96 (WS) Join Colour R with a ss in the first V-space. Ch2, begin-bobble, *ch2, skip the dc’s, bobble in next V-space; repeat from * another 71 times, cut yarn, turn. [73 bobbles]
Row 97 (RS) Join Colour A with a ss in the top of the first bobble. Ch1, 1hdc in same stitch, 2hdc in the next ch-2 space, *1hdc in top of bobble, 2hdc in the next ch-2 space; repeat from * another 70 times, 1hdc in the final bobble, ch1, turn. [217 hdc]
The white row will most likely pull a bit inward here, especially on top of the first and last bobble stitch. But that’s okay - we’ll sort it out with the edging.
Row 98 (WS) 217hdc, cut yarn, turn. [217 hdc]
Apache tear section 2
We’re making a second Apache Tear in this blanket. Don’t forget: if the sides flare out, you can crochet sc and slip stitches instead of hdc at the beginning and end of the row!
Row 99 (RS) Join Colour O with a ss in the back loop of the first stitch, ch1, 1hdc BLO in the same stitch, 216hdc BLO, cut yarn, don’t turn. [217 hdc]
Row 100 (RS) Join Colour Q with a ss in the back loop of the first stitch, ch1, 1hdc BLO in the same stitch, 5hdc BLO, *1dc in FL of stitch two rows below, skip next stitch on current row, 7hdc BLO; repeat from * another 24 times, 1dc in FL of stitch two rows below, skip next stitch on current row, 10hdc BLO, cut yarn, don’t turn. [26 dc, 191 hdc]
If you feel grabbing the FL only is too loose, you can choose to grab both loops of the stitch as well, or even the loop below the FL.
Row 101 (RS) Join Colour L with a ss in the back loop of the first stitch, ch1, 1hdc BLO in the same stitch, 6hdc BLO, *1dc in FL of stitch two rows below (stitch immediately left from the previous dc), skip next stitch on current row, 7hdc BLO; repeat from * another 24 times, 1dc in FL of stitch two rows below, skip next stitch on current row, 9hdc BLO, cut yarn, don’t turn. [26 dc, 191 hdc]
Row 102 (RS) Join Colour P with a ss in the back loop of the first stitch, ch1, 1hdc BLO in the same stitch, 7hdc BLO, *1dc in FL of stitch two rows below (stitch immediately left from the previous dc), skip next stitch on current row, 7hdc BLO; repeat from * another 24 times, 1dc in FL of stitch two rows below, skip next stitch on current row, 8hdc BLO, cut yarn, don’t turn. [26 dc, 191 hdc]
Row 103 (RS) Join Colour O with a ss in the back loop of the first stitch, ch1, 1hdc BLO in the same stitch, 8hdc BLO, *1dc in FL of stitch two rows below (stitch immediately left from the previous dc), skip next stitch on current row, 7hdc BLO; repeat from * another 24 times, 1dc in FL of stitch two rows below, skip next stitch on current row, 7hdc BLO, cut yarn, don’t turn. [26 dc, 191 hdc]
Row 104 (RS) Join Colour Q with a ss in the back loop of the first stitch, ch1, 1hdc BLO in the same stitch, 9hdc BLO, *1dc in FL of stitch two rows below (stitch immediately left from the previous dc), skip next stitch on current row, 7hdc BLO; repeat from * another 24 times, 1dc in FL of stitch two rows below, skip next stitch on current row, 6hdc BLO, cut yarn, turn. [26 dc, 191 hdc]
Row 105 (WS) Join Colour A with a ss in the first stitch, ch1, 1hdc in same st, 216hdc, cut yarn, turn. [217 hdc]
Granny Stripe sectie 4
For good measure, another Granny Stripe section!
Row 106 (RS) Join Colour I with a ss in the first stitch, ch3 (counts as first dc), 1dc in same stitch, *skip 2 stitches, 3dc in next stitch; repeat from * another 70 times, skip 2 stitches, 2dc in last stitch, cut yarn, turn. [71 Granny clusters with 3 dc, 2 clusters with 2 dc, 217 dc in total]
Row 107 (WS) Join Colour N with a ss in first stitch, ch3 (counts as first dc), *3dc in first space between clusters of previous row; repeat from * another 71 times, 1dc in third ch of begin-ch3 of previous row. Cut yarn, turn. [72 Granny clusters with 3 dc, 2 dc, 218 dc in total]
You might have noticed that we have 218 stitches in this row. We’ll fix that in the next row.
Row 108 (RS) Join Colour A with a ss in the first stitch, ch1, 1hdc in same st, 215hdc, hdc2tog in the final 2 stitches, cut yarn, turn. [216 hdc, 1 hdc2tog]
Row 109 (WS) 217hdc, cut yarn, turn. [217 hdc]
Comments
I meant if you read through the Part 6 pattern, it shows 1, 2 and then 4. :) November 04, 2023 16:59 - Reply