Rainbow Sampler Blanket 2 (Part 7)
09.Nov.23 / Kirsten BalleringAre you ready to continue your Sampler adventure? The Rainbow Sampler Blanket 2 features more stitches, vibrant colours, and a sprinkle of yarn magic.
Designed for adventurous beginners who want to take their crochet skills to the next level, this blanket teaches you everything you need to know about more advanced stitch patterns.
Other pattern parts can be found here:
Materials and preparation
Yarn
Original Colours
Scheepjes Colour Crafter (100% Premium Acrylic, 100g/300m)- Colour A: 1001 Weert x 6 balls
- Colour B: 1132 Leek x 1 ball
- Colour C: 1083 Tilburg x 1 ball
- Colour D: 1123 Roermond x 1 ball
- Colour E: 2004 Brussel x 1 ball
- Colour F: 1277 Amstelveen x 1 ball
- Colour G: 1432 Heerlen x 1 ball
- Colour H: 1130 Sittard x 1 ball
- Colour I: 1241 Den Bosch x 1 ball
- Colour J: 1821 Terneuzen x 1 ball
- Colour K: 1725 Ameland x 1 ball
- Colour L: 1422 Eelde x 1 ball
- Colour M: 2009 Kortrijk x 1 ball
- Colour N: 2006 Luik x 1 ball
- Colour O: 1068 Den Helder x 1 ball
- Colour P: 1034 Urk x 1 ball
- Colour Q: 2015 Bastogne x 1 ball
- Colour R: 1114 Eindhoven x 1 ball
- Colour S: 1263 Leerdam x 1 ball
Shop the yarn!
If you're looking for Colour Crafter, you can find it at your local retailer or online through one of these links:
Crochet hook
5.0mm (US size H/8).
Measurements
The blanket measures 170 x 210cm (67 x 82 ½in) after blocking.
Gauge/tension
See pattern of part 1 for gauge information.
Notes
- The colours used this week are:
- Colour A: 36g
- Colour B: 20g
- Colour C: 21g
- Colour D: 16g
- Colour E: 16g
- Colour G: 12g
- Colour K: 6g
- Colour R: 16g
- In most rows, you’ll make a ch1 before turning your blanket. This is a turning chain and does not count as a stitch. If you find a ch1 is too small, you can also make a ch2. This depends on how tight you crochet.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- begin-bobble: ch2, (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through two loops on hook) 5x in the same stitch or space, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
- begin-puff stitch: ch1, (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop) 3x in the same stitch, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
- BLO: back loop only
- bobble: (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through two loops on hook) 6x in the same stitch, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
- ch: chain(s)
- dc: double crochet
- dc2tog: double crochet 2 stitches together to decrease the stitch count by 1: (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through first two loops on hook) once in each of two stitches, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
- dc3tog: double crochet 3 stitches together to decrease the stitch count by 2: (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through first two loops on hook) once in each of three stitches, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
- dc7tog: double crochet 7 stitches together to decrease the stitch count by 6: (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through first two loops on hook) once in each of seven stitches, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
- FL: front loop
- FPdc: front post double crochet: Yarn over, insert your hook around the post of the stitch indicated in the pattern, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through first two loops on hook, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
- hdc: half double crochet
- hdc2tog: half double crochet 2 stitches together to decrease the stitch count by 1: (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop) in each of two stitches, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
- popcorn: 6dc in same stitch, remove hook from loop, insert hook from front to back through first dc, pick up loop, pull through dc to close popcorn
- puff stitch: (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop) 4x in the same stitch, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
- RS: right side
- sc: single crochet
- ss: slip stitch
- s(ts): stitch(es)
- tr: treble crochet
- wrapped st: wrapped stitch: (yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop to working height) 2x in same space, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
- WS: wrong side
Repeat formats
- *….; rep from * once/twice/3x Crochet the instructions after * and then repeat that section a further number of times as indicated.
- *…; rep to end Crochet the instructions after * and then repeat that section to the end of the row or round.
- (…) once/twice/3x Crochet the instructions between brackets the total number of times indicated.
- […] Indicates the amount of stitches at the end of a row or round.
- (…) in same st/sp Indicates that all instructions between brackets are worked in the same stitch or space.
Colour layout
Techniques
The techniques for this week have been placed on separate pages:
Crochet pattern
Catherine Wheel section 2
We’re adding another Catherine wheel row to the blanket. I like the solid look of this stitch - especially after a couple of ‘airy’ stitches!
Row 110 (RS) Join Colour E with a ss in first st, 1sc in same st, *skip 2 sts, (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in same st, skip 2 sts, 1sc in next st; repeat from * another 34 times, skip 2 sts, (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in same st, skip 2 sts, 1sc in last stitch, cut yarn, turn. [37 sc, 36 3dc-ch1-3dc clusters, 72 spaces where you skipped 2 sts]
Row 111 (WS) Join Colour R with a ss in first st, ch3 (counts as first dc), dc3tog, ch7, skip ch-1 space, *dc7tog, ch7, skip ch-1 space; repeat from * another 34 times, dc3tog, 1dc in final st, turn. [35 half Catherine wheels, 2 quarter wheels (one on each end), 2 dc, 36 ch-7]
Row 112 (RS) Ch3 (counts as first dc), 3dc in dc3tog (there’s an ‘eye’ in the centre of the wheel, that’s where you’ll be working your stitches), 1sc over the ch7 of your previous row into the ch-1 space of Row 110, *(3dc, ch1, 3dc) in next dc7tog, 1sc over the ch7 of your previous row into the next ch-1 space of Row 110; repeat from * another 34 times, 3dc in final dc3tog, 1dc in last dc (the ch3 with which you started Row 111), cut yarn, turn. [35 half Catherine wheels, 2 quarter Catherine wheels (one on each end), 2 dc, 36 sc]
Since we’re only going to work one row of Catherine wheels the next row will look like Row 111, but will not be exactly the same. If you would crochet 7 chains as the ‘top’ row of the Catherine wheel, you can imagine that the rows above would have a big gap, like you see when you make mandalas. Instead, we’ll be securing the chain to the Catherine wheels. This way, you can continue without big gaps. Basically, we’re mirroring Row 110.
Row 113 (WS) Join Colour E with a ss in first st, 1sc in same st, *ch3, dc7tog, ch3, 1sc in ch-1 space of Row 112; repeat from * another 34 times, ch3, dc7tog, ch3, 1sc in last dc (the ch3 with which you started Row 112). Cut yarn, turn. [37 sc, 36 dc7tog, 72 ch-3]
We’ll need to make sure we’re going back to 217 hdc in the next row. This means counting! Luckily, we can look to Row 110 for help. Each Catherine wheel took up 6 stitches (1 sc, 2 skipped stitches, a Catherine wheel and then 2 skipped stitches again) for every repeat. So we’ll just need to ensure we’re working 6 stitches per Catherine wheel, plus the final stitch that we’ve used to fasten the last wheel to get back to 217.
Row 114 (RS) Join Colour A with a ss in first st, ch1, 1hdc in same st, *2hdc in ch-3 space, 1hdc in dc7tog, 2hdc in next ch-3 space, 1hdc in sc; repeat from * another 34 times, 2hdc in ch-3 space, 1hdc in dc7tog, 2hdc in ch-3 space, 1hdc in last sc, ch1, turn. [217 hdc]
Row 115 (WS) 217hdc, cut yarn, turn. [217 hdc]
Puff stitch section 2
Time to practice your puff stitches again!
Row 116 (RS) Join Colour B with a ss in the first stitch, begin-puff st in same st, *ch1, skip 1 st, puff st; repeat from * another 106 times, ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in last stitch, cut yarn, turn. [1 begin-puff st, 107 puff sts, 108 ch, 1 dc]
Row 117 (WS) Join Colour A with a ss in first dc, ch1, *1hdc in same st, 1hdc in next puff st; repeat from * another 107 times, 1hdc in last dc, cut yarn, turn. [217 hdc]
Tulip stitch section 2
Did you enjoy the first Tulip row? We’re making another one!
Row 118 (RS) Join Colour K with a ss in the first stitch, ch4, 1dc in same st as the first ch (so the first stitch), skip next 2 stitches, *(1dc, ch2, 1dc) in same stitch, skip next 2 stitches; repeat from * another 70 times, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last stitch, cut yarn, turn. [71 full V’s and 2 smaller V’s on both ends]
As you can see, this first row of the Tulip stitch is very much alike to the V stitch. You can see the leaves of each tulip forming. Next, we will make bobble stitches to form the tulip’s flower.
Row 119 (WS) Join Colour G with a ss in the first V-space. Ch2, begin-bobble, *ch2, skip the dc’s, bobble in next V-space; repeat from * another 71 times, cut yarn, turn. [73 bobbles]
Row 120 (RS) Join Colour A with a ss in the top of the first bobble. Ch1, 1hdc in same stitch, 2hdc in the next ch-2 space, *1hdc in top of bobble, 2hdc in the next ch-2 space; repeat from * another 70 times, 1hdc in the final bobble, ch1, turn. [217 hdc]
The white row will most likely pull a bit inward here, especially on top of the first and last puff stitch. But that’s okay - we’ll sort it out with the edging.
Row 121 (WS) 217hdc, cut yarn, turn. [217 hdc]
Hdc section 2
Sometimes you just need a break from thinking, and the hdc sections are perfect for that.
Row 122 (RS) Join Colour C with a ss in first stitch, ch1, 1hdc in same st, 216hdc, ch1, turn. [217 hdc]
Row 123 (WS) 217hdc, cut yarn, turn. [217 hdc]
Row 124 (RS) Join Colour D with a ss in first stitch, ch1, 1hdc in same st, 216hdc, cut yarn, turn. [217 hdc]
Row 125 (WS) Join Colour C with a ss in first stitch, ch1, 1hdc in same st, 216hdc, cut yarn, turn. [217 hdc]
Row 126 (RS) Join Colour B with a ss in first stitch, ch1, 1hdc in same st, 216hdc, cut yarn, turn. [217 hdc]
Row 127 (WS) Join Colour D with a ss in first stitch, ch1, 1hdc in same st, 216hdc, ch1, turn. [217 hdc]
Row 128 (RS) 217hdc, cut yarn, turn. [217 hdc]
Row 129 (WS) Join Colour C with a ss in first stitch, ch1, 1hdc in same st, 216hdc, cut yarn, turn. [217 hdc]
Row 130 (RS) Join Colour B with a ss in first stitch, ch1, 1hdc in same st, 216hdc, cut yarn, turn.[217 hdc]
Row 131 (WS) Join Colour A with a ss in first st, ch1, 1hdc in same st, 216hdc, ch1, turn. [217 hdc]
Row 132 (RS) 217hdc, cut yarn, turn. [217 hdc]
Diagram
Chart Part 7
Key (US terms)
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